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  #1331  
Old 05-19-2020, 05:45 AM
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My plan has always been these old HEMI covers painted black and painting the intake manifold a aluminium colour for contrast. So I have arrowed all the bits moulded on the stock intake, plus some on the other side you can't see, that I want to remove.


I started just with a cutoff wheel in the Dremel.


The switched to a grinding stone.


Even a tiny sanding disc.


Then the hand sanding going up through the grades. Starting at 180, and you can see the third runner from the left is up to 600.


Even used some 1200. Further than needs to go for painting, but not sure when that will be yet.


Even used some cutting compound by hand and then some headlight restorer. Just cleans it all up a bit.
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  #1332  
Old 05-19-2020, 08:11 AM
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Details, details, details.
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  #1333  
Old 05-19-2020, 09:09 PM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Those covers and intake look great! Very cool!
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  #1334  
Old 05-20-2020, 07:27 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Covers and intake Look great Marcus!!!
You did a nice job on making the suspension tower support but the engine area would look better if it were not there.
I understand that it is needed!
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  #1335  
Old 05-20-2020, 03:59 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Looks really great, Marcus. I like the wire covers on the valve cover a lot.

My Dremel like yours with those little quick change cut-off wheels is one of my favorite solutions for certain projects. Ive got regular die grinders, but that set-up fits where most others don't.
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  #1336  
Old 05-20-2020, 07:34 PM
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Many thanks guys.

I wouldn't mind re-routing the fuel line crossover from one rail to the other. I have now just taken off the split conduit and looks better, but rather the crossover was from the ends of the rails like the 6.1 HEMI.
I can get aftermarket fuel rails, but even the cheapest are well over $200 US. The line is a rubbery/plastic that is pushed over a barbed fitting on the rails without clamps. I guess I could weld up those and weld a fitting at each end instead. Unless there is a short 90 degree bend I can somehow fit over the barbs? Or cap those and thread fitting on the ends to save welding and recoating? The fuel pressure is 60 psi on these.
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  #1337  
Old 05-21-2020, 08:06 PM
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I'm putting up now what I did a month and a half ago before all the panel treatment and coil covers were done. Just waited until I could complete the write up once the mesh came in. Due to COVID-19, things that used to take 2 days, now take 2 weeks. Things that were 2 weeks, now take 2 months. Let alone anything from China that used to take 2 months!


Let the cutting begin! As I was not happy with the length of the slots, I am shortening them 50mm-2" back to the stock length. I am leaving the rest of the grille longer as need that to fit my radiator size.


Gives you an idea how the sectioning is going to work. I cut along the splice lines of the original extension that I had done.


I would have preferred to section the bead along with the grille slots, but the grille mounting bracket on the back gets in the way of doing it. So cut a slot up the middle of the bead, flattened it, and then rounded the end again with a sectioned piece of pipe.


Filler piece tacked in ready for welding.


As usual I checked to make sure each part of the grille was flat after welding. Can just see it drip down a fraction at the ends of this grille bar.


Made up a dolly from some bar stock and hammered down onto the table to stretch it out.


Now nice and flat again. All of them were checked of coarse.


From the factory, one side of each grille bar is longer than the other making it flat across the back to compensate for the grille angle. As I planned to fit some mesh behind the grille, I need to take care of the fact that the factory didn't press the last bar at each end this way as well. The reason is they needed the material on the opposite side of the slot to mount the radiator cowling. Rather than just adding a thin strip, it is better to add a wide piece, fully weld it, then cut it back to the right width. This controls the welding distortion far better.


The distance above and below the slots is close to the same now, 5mm-3/16" more on the bottom. Not the look I intend to keep though.


I can now adjust the height of the gravel tray until I like the proportions.


Think it is looking closer to the 48 grille above it rather than the 58 grille it started out as, which is what I wanted. Remember it is 2" taller and 9" wider overall with 2 extra slots added to make it the same number as the 48 grille.


A shot showing the various Jeep grille proportions through the years. Think I am closer now with the modifications but wont know until I have the Willys back together again.
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  #1338  
Old 05-21-2020, 09:06 PM
keith keith is offline
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Marcus,

I like everything from the valve covers to the grille.
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  #1339  
Old 05-22-2020, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith View Post
Marcus,

I like everything from the valve covers to the grille.
Thanks Keith, glad to hear it.
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  #1340  
Old 05-23-2020, 07:00 AM
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I'd been thinking of ways to attach the mesh while keeping it taut. Was not sure if just using tabs welded to the back of grille bars would keep the top and bottom tightly in place. So looking at doing it this way.


The mesh I ended up using was branded SAAS and sold through Autobarn and others. https://www.autobarn.com.au/saas-bod...k-1200-x-280mm
I prefer this style of tin snips when you need to cut further into a sheet. These are made by WISS and they work like a throatless shear.


I thought it would look more professional if I curved the mesh to follow the back of the bars without gaps.


The mesh was not wide enough for my grille with the extra two slots. I had also ordered one that was, but it had a bit bigger diamond pattern that was less obvious. This one also has a twist so you must flip one side to keep it looking the same when run vertically. Viewed this way gives the most 'screening'.


To make the bends I put some tape down along the edge of the bench to save marking it. Then holding the ruler down, just bent it down using my hands. For the bigger radius curve, I bent it over some pipe.


I made sure the join was behind one of the grille bars. The pieces nest really well and could be held in place with the biggest rivet I could fit through the mesh holes.


I couldn't attach it directly below the grille slots as it would show through the front of the grille. By having it fold at the top and bottom, the fasteners will be less obvious.


I drilled and tapped some 3mm-1/8" aluminium sheet with the holes matching the ones in the mesh. Stainless steel button head screws then screw into these putting tension on the mesh. Worked so well that no additional fixing behind the grille bars was needed.


I ended up flipping the mesh so that the twist in it matched the angle of the grille so there was little obstruction when viewed head on. Also, the airflow now has a straight path. When viewed in front of the radiator it makes a bigger difference and makes it look less vacant. Will make more sense once I get shots of it all back together.
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