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Merry Christmas.
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-- Bill J. Punta Gorda, FL |
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Happy holidays to you and your family. Stay safe.
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Mark |
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I’ve been away to long. She looks killer in that black dress and so glad you were able to stay true to the rendering with no vent windows!!!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Jack! Greg
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Greg |
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After an awful lot of messing around, I finally got the driver side window operating. I didn't need to use the guide and skid pads. The regulator holds the template securely in the front run channel. The template is in the full up position and just barely sealing along the upper weatherstrip in the picture below. When the trim piece is attached to the upper edge of the glass, it will be a proper seal.
Making the passenger side should go a lot faster. I will just transfer the locations of the driver side mounting points to the passenger side. The majority of the time I spent was finding the exact locating points. It was very time consuming, and at times frustrating. 1/8" wall, 1/2" wide, 1/2" tall extruded T6 aluminum channel. Not my first choice but I couldn't find what I was looking for in stainless. The opening is 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep. This will be the trim for the upper edge of the side glass. I need to do a little more finish work on the regulator and test it some more before I declare the glass template finished. I'll anneal and bend up one of these trim pieces and attach it to the template to be sure everything is right.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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Glad you got it sorted out Jack.
Much better without the vent windows. |
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When I was trying (and failing) to find door window frames for my '31 Cabriolet, I tried to figure out how to make them. I look at the aluminum, but rejected it early on. The Model A was chromed steel and survived many years in the elements before any problems. I tried 1/2 x 1 inch tubing of varied wall thicknesses (.049 - .065 - .084). The OD was too large so I crushed it between rollers. It created a curled effect, but I was on the right track. Then I found the parts I needed at a swap meet. If I was doing it again I would:
--try the tubing again and slice off one side of tube, insert steel strap of the right thickness and press the tube between rollers to get the right dimensions for glass thickness and channel width. --Go to a sheet metal shop and have them form a channel in a press brake out of crs or stainless.
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Norm Henderson Last edited by norson; 01-18-2021 at 10:25 PM. |
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![]() I managed to get the left side glass operating properly so I'm moving on to the right side. I didn't have much time to cover this while doing the left side. I was busy trying to figure out how to stuff a fairly complex apparatus into a door that it didn't belong in. Above is a 3 axis diagram that helps visualize what needs to be considered. X axis represents left and right, Y axis is up and down, and Z axis is fore and aft. Even though the tracks are slanted forward along the door post run channel in the Y axis, they have to be parallel so the window doesn't bind as it moves up and down. Next, each of the tracks need to be tilted left and right in the X axis the exact same amount to follow the run channel and not twist the glass as it moves up and down. And all this needs to be done working inside the door shell... Working blind. It was frustrating at times because if I miss by just a small amount, I have to do some fabricating to get it right. The perches at the bottom would need to be taller or shorter, or the upper mounting holes welded up and redrilled in a new location. I had to walk away a few times. Below is the layout for the right side. This side should go much smoother since I figured out the lower perches. These are the final version templates for the right side lower perches, the perches in 18ga steel, and regulator. The glass template is from the left side. I'm about to find out how well I made the roof. If the first glass template works on both sides, all is good. If not.. ![]() I was able to find a new windshield in green EZ Eye tint with no shade, so the roof upholstery will be black. I would only have used the dark cranberry upholstery if I could find a clear windshield, so black it is. I started cutting this windshield the same way I did the mock up windshield. This blue tape is similar to plastic packing tape. I think I used masking tape last time and remember having problems with the water loosening up the tape. This tape stays down. Near the end of this cut I noticed that it was going slower than usual. The bit was wearing down. It was requiring more pressure to cut so I stopped. When you're cutting glass like this there are two enemies working against you; shock and temperature SHOCK I'm using a new rotozip tool. There's NO looseness in the bearings. I can push the bit by hand in any direction and there is no play at all. Unlike air driven die grinders, this is a precision tool. If for any reason, the bit starts rattling while cutting, it will shoot a crack across the glass and it's over. $550 in the dumpster. TEMPERATURE Obviously there is friction involved while cutting and it is all focused in one small spot. That's what the water flooding is for. Glass has very little, or no elasticity at all. When you focus heat in a very small spot, the heated spot tries to expand. With metals, the cooler surrounding material is pushed away by this expansion. With glass that can't happen. The result is a fracture. This is why I stopped cutting. It was taking more pressure to make the cut than it should. (generating more heat). I ordered a new bit so I'll finish the other side when that gets here.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 01-18-2021 at 09:06 PM. |
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You have nerves of steel Jack.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
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