#41
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After seeing toner283's picture I have to take that back. That looks spot on Ken!! Nice work.
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Jeff Dyce Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something. Thomas A. Edison |
#42
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Ken, here are some pictures of a die that will make the hole for the badge in the grill shell. I didn't know the size of the hole you need so I started with a 1" hole punched in a piece of 18 gauge. The formed hole is 1.200" diameter and from the top of the sheet to the bottom of the flange it is .220". I used an arbor press to push the dies in the sheet.
The guide hole/pin is 1/2", the first flat is .995" diameter to fit in the punched hole, Then a 45 degree angle to a diameter of 1.190". The female die large diameter is 1.305" deep enough to take the male die. It has a 1/2" hole to accept the guide pin.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#43
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Pressed flange
Joe,
I was wondering about that technique. Just how long of a flange do you think could be made with this technique? A bit of heat could be applied to assist the metal move. I'd be concerned with thinning the edge, keeping the center in the right location. John
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John Ron Covell, Autofuturist books (Tim Barton/Bill Longyard) and Kent White metalshaping DVD's available, shipped from the US. Contact lane@mountainhouseestate.com for price and availability. |
#44
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John, the way the die is made it will stay centered all long as you press it straight and square. To increase the depth of the flange change the starting diameter and the angle between the starting diameter and the finish diameter. I don't know how deep of a flange you can make but I would guess at least 1/2" would be possible with standard cold roll 1018 18 gauge. The thinning is not that much in the piece I did .002" max. I was using a 3 ton ratchet arbor press, the one I use for broaching keyways, but I was no where near the capacity, bet less that 1 ton. Lubrication was used so it was easy.
A lot will depend on the diameter of the hole you are trying to produce. You are not extruding the metal but bending with a little stretching. For the parts on the radiator shell I don't see any problem with this technique and die design.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#45
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Hi Folks,
I've been on vacation lately, but in between some camping and fishing, I did manage to spend some time on the grille shell over the last couple of weeks. I've also been on the phone with Joe a couple of times recently, and I think I've got the process worked out just fine for the Ford button hole at the top. Before I got too distracted with other things, I made up tape patterns for the rest of the shell. The full pattern is made of five parts (top front, bottom front, top, and the left and right sides). These pattern parts have considerable overlaps made into them right now, I'll cut them down to proper size later when I have the individual steel sections roughed into shape. The bottom panel pictured below is my second shot at this part, as I wrecked the first one early on when I was rolling the offset for the inside opening. Everything was going OK at first until I hit those tight bottom corners, and I think I simply got lost trying to follow those lines! I'm getting new bifocals soon, maybe that'll help. My second try went much better, although I have some minor cleaning up to do at the corners. Since I can still think of 50 possible ways to wreck this panel before it's finished, I'll save those finer details for later. Here it is with the sides tipped over and lot's of shrinking to do, especially at the bottom corners. Below is a side view after both sides were tipped over, with the front face of the shell lying flat on the workbench. The curvature was caused by tipping the side edges along a curved line, which caused the front face to bend upwards like this in response. To get the entire front face to sit flat on the wooden bench again, I have to shorten (shrink) the top edge pretty deeply along both sides of the shell, especially at the bottom corners at the left side of this picture. Anybody know of a way to use a stump to do a shrink like this? I looked at it sitting over the tapered hollow on my wooden stump for a while, but I just couldn't visualize the desired effect happening if I was to start hitting it with a hammer, so I didn't have the guts to try it. I was wondering about some kind of profile cut across the top of a horizontal log or something. I think I recall a discussion about something like this long ago, but I can't remember where.
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Ken Has anybody seen that key I left in the chuck? See Ken's Metalshaping Gallery at: http://home.cogeco.ca/~kenb2/index.html Website updated June 2011 Last edited by kenb; 06-19-2011 at 06:58 PM. |
#46
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I would have cut on the green line then tipped the face of the two sides in. (As in make the bend in a brake) then there would be only a little shrinking on the face to curve the sides. Then roll the step last when side is done. Then weld the parts together.
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The Rod Doctor, Richard Crees Last edited by TheRodDoc; 06-19-2011 at 07:35 PM. |
#47
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Quote:
Any kind of tuck created would have to go all the way from the back to the front bend to avoid the edges from ''bowling''. Shrinking at the front would need to be minimal to shrinking substantially at the back. Does this make any sense at all? |
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