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  #21  
Old 04-18-2010, 05:18 PM
Ron Naida Ron Naida is offline
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Nice job you are doing Steve.

You must have " Pullmax tunnel syndrome" after
running all those profiles.

Ron
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  #22  
Old 12-25-2012, 03:00 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default Wow How time flies.

Almost three years since I started this project. Thanks for all the nice comments . I have been working on the truck a little here & there as time permits. I was able to locate a parts truck this past June that had the Cutom cab (wrap around Rear window & stainless window trim), So had to take a few steps backward to incorporate that.
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Haven't worked on it since July but I will try to get caught up on the progress since the last posts.

As you all know if you work on cars & trucks, the rust is always more than you thought it would be. The mice had built a nest above the windshield in the front of the roof so that was rusted thin. I made the replacement panels by wheeling and using the tipping wheel to turn flanges & joggles. Sorry no pic of process due to computer crash. Here you can see what was required.





two large panels & one little one at the pinch weld.


Leaves & crud accumulated in the fresh air vent below the windshield so more repair panels there. The outer panel had to be removed to access the area. here are the two panel no process pics here either.



A third panel was made for the front of the outer cowl. after welding to the outer panel and the weld stretched, the outer cowl was replaced on the truck cab.



Well finally all the rust is gone from the cowl. one down & many areas to go.

Steve
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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 12-25-2012 at 05:37 PM. Reason: add more
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  #23  
Old 12-25-2012, 05:56 PM
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gerry miller gerry miller is offline
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Default Fantastic results

Steve, Looks really great. I just finished one of those rotten cowl vent assemblies. Worst mess I ever tried to fix, I must admit I cheated on stuff you won't see. Those were really complicated panels and parts.First time I used patterns. Sometimes part didn't havethe fit I wanted.
Lived in Milwaukee most of my life. Gotta say that pullmax sure made a lot of nice parts.I am impressed.I WANT ONE!!!!
See Ya Gerry
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  #24  
Old 12-25-2012, 06:06 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default extending the dash board

The dash on these trucks did not extend very far from the windshield, so not much room under it. I wanted the longer cab so I could move the seat back for more leg room. When I mocked up a seat and steering column the dash was a long ways away. I didn't have a big enough project already, so time to make a little more work. I decided that since the doors are 4 inches longer the dash should be moved back the same distance. Still no process pics (sorry), mostly wheeling to fit to the curve of the dash & to match the guage cluster hump. Then tig weld & planish.



The line in the dust is about what is added.


bottom of dash


That was the easy part, now look what I have to fix.



If you look at the passenger door, I have tape showing that the end of the dash will soon be part of the door. the end of the dash will need a panel to tie it into the door jamb, and the door will need an end cap for the dash end section. More later when I get back to this phase.

Steve
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  #25  
Old 12-25-2012, 09:57 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default Planning how to extend the truck cab

I spent a lot of time thinking about how to proceed with making an extended cab. It has been a while but here goes.
  1. before any cutting begins make sure all of the door hinge pivot pins are tight.
  2. Fit the doors to the openings the best you can. make sure the body lines match up.
  3. Level up the vehicle frame, or frame fixture to mount the body on. Replace the rubber body mounts with wood or steel, then bolt and shim the body to the frame. Shim as needed to get proper door alignment an equal measurements on many diagonal measurement from factory reference points on each side of the vehicle. This process can also be used when doing a top chop.
  4. Create reference point for future measuments on any parts that will be cut off and moved. also a reference mark on the coresponding part that will not be removed. scribe all marks for accuracy, and record the distance for each prior to any cutting.
  5. I'am extending the doors 4 inches and adding 13 inches behind the doors. Take one project at a time, the door jambs will be moved 4 inches first.
  6. Temperary Rear body mount are placed on the frame back 4 inches.
  7. The roof skin was removed at the factory seams as it will be reused.
  8. Cut lines were determined & scribed for both sides of the roof structure and the floor. I didn't want to cut through floor braces.
  9. A support was welded from the LH to RH top of the door Jambs.
  10. Since I now had a solid cowl section & a solid back section (floor intact) and both on a stable frame the two were cut apart.
  11. The back section was moved to the new mounts and alignment punches dropped in the holes. visegrips & temporary angle iron spacers are clamped to the upper jambs. All reference dimensions were increased by 4 inches for the floor and the jamb tops.
  12. Angle iron was clamped & tack welded to the floor to keep it level, square, & 4 inches back from the front floor section.
  13. The doors are still in place on the hinges to check that the gap, and body line is correct.




Brace between upper jambs, note Passenger door is already extended and fits the opening.


No more pics. next I installed the new upper door jambs, and then installed the new steps & rocker panels. Double checking everything before welding. With that completed the door jambs are locked in place.

Hope this is understandable.
more later

Steve
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  #26  
Old 12-25-2012, 10:52 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Default New floor repair sections

The floor at the base of the cowl and around the front body mounts was rusted out. The floor had a 4" strip missing from the door jamb extention, and I still needed to extend the floor 13 " in the back.

Here are the dies to make the floor beads using the pullmax. Used the fence for a guide, on the long strait beads, i think 3 passes each.





I first bent the panel to 45* and then freehand fed the piece through the pullmax. Not perfectly straight lines but good enough for the floor of my driver.





The kick shrinker & shrinking disk were used to fix the pucker at the end of each bead.

Steve
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2012, 11:56 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Nice work on this project, like the "small" changes you do, it will be alot better space for your long legs there

Hope to be abel to see it live some day..

// Per
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  #28  
Old 12-26-2012, 04:36 AM
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excellent stuff .. geez id love a pullmax but there few and far between in Australia and way to expensive for a home shop /./

are there cheaper home build units ?
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  #29  
Old 12-26-2012, 06:50 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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Hey, Steve, thanks for posting the pictures. I always learn stuff if I pay attention to what you are telling us. Glad to see you back working on your truck. I can see the progress from the time I visited your shop.

I can almost taste the ice cream and stawberries!
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  #30  
Old 12-26-2012, 08:17 AM
route56wingnut route56wingnut is offline
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Steve ,After looking at your pre planning list I think I only missed ALL of them . Going backwards takes way more time than formulating a solid plan . Thanks for reminding us the importance of a good outcome starting at the begining .
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