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  #41  
Old 03-12-2021, 07:31 AM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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Originally Posted by TonyP View Post
Hi Bill.

Sorry as a noob here Iím not familiar with this forum format so I kind shot a blank and put UHMW in the title field so I donít think it was clear what I was asking.

So has anybody tried UHMW instead of wood on a shrinker pad?

I have some hard maple from a futon frame. But I also have a lot of 1Ē thick sheet UHMW.

Tony
Hi Tony,

The melting point on UHMW might be a little low. I found some standard 1x6 oak and got a short length cut and it has been working out great. The disc likely gets a bit hotter than the work material, and the oak leaves behind a burnish from the sap/wood resins that cleans off with the *sizzle free* drenched rag quench. I would definitely give the futon maple a run, it should self-bevel with just a little working time.

I am in the process of *ahem* paying dues on this passenger fender from a Ford F1, not pretty, old repair. Very thick mud work around the area revealed this. So I am tackling it, will update a pic very soon. The progress with the disc to me is why "fine-tuning" comes into its association. It's slow. I am seeing torch shrinking as per John Butchenkirks blue text posts on the "Metallurgy of Heat Shrinking" thread to be a great resource. And as per the board sages' recommendation it will shrink down (in my rudimentary experience) "neater" when tapped down at lower temperature (swelled grey/blue.)

If anyone wants to upload proper wood disc technique that would be amazing although right now I am going off Wray Schelin's yt upload method.. sharpie, sand to highlight, flipper/dolly, shrink disc, rinse repeat.

Leveling this panel has been a challenge accepted, I feel I was a little near-sighted in treating the main damage in the central 8" around the crease and shrunk before reconciling the metal around that perimeter. I had an (ah man!) oil-can surface while torch shrinking the resulting 5x7" bulge. My hunch is that this happened because the damage, highs, and lows, extend out another 8-10" surrounding the sharpie area I've been working and I was shrinking too much, too hot, too soon after the slow-going with the disc. I don't regret it too badly as I can smell a win in the air soon. The canning tightened up using the dual-thumb action method. As Kent White said, the metal has a very limited vocab, and wants to be understood. So I am listening. Occasionally in my dinging forays I hear a tightening sound like a timpani drum increasing pitch. Sometimes, decreasing pitch. My intuition aims for the increase and I hope that aim is a good or neutral direction. Lucky for me I know I'm likely looking at an over-shrink/re-stretch scenario. Will update maŮana or soon thereafter

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Last edited by 2020Presence; 03-12-2021 at 07:37 AM.
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  #42  
Old 03-12-2021, 08:48 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyP View Post
Hi Bill.

Sorry as a noob here Iím not familiar with this forum format so I kind shot a blank and put UHMW in the title field so I donít think it was clear what I was asking.

So has anybody tried UHMW instead of wood on a shrinker pad?

I have some hard maple from a futon frame. But I also have a lot of 1Ē thick sheet UHMW.

Tony
Tony, UHMW smears when it gets hot. I doubt it would be effective as a shrinking disk. That said, I've never tried it.
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  #43  
Old 03-12-2021, 10:54 AM
TonyP TonyP is offline
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Thanks Dennis and Kerry. I will give the maple a try. I guess I just didnít truly understand the temps the wood could generate.
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  #44  
Old 03-12-2021, 03:47 PM
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Tony, we had some stainless at work that someone got forklift happy with. One piece was worse than the other, I was able to repair the lesser damaged one to acceptable status. We used cherry...












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  #45  
Old 03-12-2021, 04:03 PM
TonyP TonyP is offline
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That looks amazing Robert. I don’t claim to have any extensive experience but why is this the only place I’ve ever heard of using a wood disk? I’d only heard of the metal shrinking disks before finding this thread.
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Last edited by TonyP; 03-13-2021 at 12:05 PM.
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  #46  
Old 03-12-2021, 08:21 PM
BTromblay BTromblay is offline
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Hi,

I made a plastic shrink disk out of phenolic that I use as well. Phenolic is a epoxy resign impregnated canvas material used a high wear resistant applications. My concern with a wood disk, is blowing it up due to high heat, pressure mixed with a high rpm. I never heard of an issue with the wood, but I thought I would give the phenolic a try. To be honest I don't notice much of a difference as they both work well will little to no marking in aluminium.

I'm concerned about the long term health affects of burning phenolic and the long term health affect of blowing up a wood disk while you are holding it

So far, so good...

B
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  #47  
Old 03-13-2021, 03:36 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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I guys didn't understand the worn disc? What disc do you think?

If there are concerns about the rupture of the wooden wheel. A steel cover can be made on the lathe and a disc inserted into it and screwed together with a central nut. Maybe stick the wooden disk in the cover. Yes, the speed is high.

Suspender (men's protection) from hockey equipment should be used .....


I have to try this method too. I don't know how it would work on 1.5mm stainless steel sheet? I'm working on that now, mentally for now.
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  #48  
Old 03-14-2021, 11:42 AM
NEB Alan NEB Alan is offline
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Default Phenolic Disc

Bill; get a copy of the MSDS on the exact material, if you know it. Some of these have bad stuff in the fabric material that can be released in the dust from wear.
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  #49  
Old 03-14-2021, 04:46 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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I had this idea you may be able to tailor the friction of the wood disc by applying violinist rosin to the wood disc while it is spinning.
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  #50  
Old 03-15-2021, 12:02 AM
2020Presence 2020Presence is offline
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That's an interesting thought Steve. I would definitely give it a "SPIN." Bahaha, though all excellent jokes aside, if you do it, report what you find if possible. After more time on the disc I got familiar with the heat rate. Maybe adding friction would shorten that time and reduce heat where it's not intended. Maybe it will work too well and heat too fast. At least, a good experiment

With this very poor fender, I finally made headway by flipping it upside down and working the reverse contour with a flipper and the flat side of a dolly. As well as working the inside with the wood disc to blend and equalize, cycled the disc less (2-3x) between planishing. I want to thank those I mentioned already as well as MP&C, Richard K, John Kelly, Kerry Pinkerton, for posts that spanned a few different boards. Also I apologize for butchering John Buchtenkirch' name a few post up. There are many others to thank, really grateful for this community!
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