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  #411  
Old 11-15-2015, 07:29 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Took a break from stripping paint and tackled this dent on my Willys bumper.


Can see the distortion in the reflection and also the damage on the underside.


I just did it this way. Using a soft mallet on the stump so both had some give and wouldn't stretch the metal.


With most lifted it was on to more detailed work. Used a matching curved dolly and a flat faced hammer on top. I had the bumper sandwiched between the base boards of my house at one end and jammed into my stomach at the other while the middle rested on the stump. This was so I could push up hard from underneath with the dolly while tapping around the outside of the dent with the hammer from above. Pushing up harder than you are tapping down off dolly will raise the centre.


The metal is way too thick to use my bullseye pick hammer, but I used it to mark exactly underneath where I had a tiny amount of a crease left on top.


Then I line up the marks from the bullseye pick over the crack in the stump and then hit down, with the new hammer I bought while over in England recently, to hit on the marks.


Can see it has come up pretty well and have done no filing. Just light hand sand to show up any low spots.


Still got to get a little bit more on the side which I will do over a piece clamped in a vice to lift it.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 07:48 PM.
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  #412  
Old 11-16-2015, 07:07 AM
John Francis John Francis is offline
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Since I have followed this build from the start, and seeing the work/level of detail you are doing, unless you have a very good plater that you trust, I would recommend, if possible, to have the bumper stripped now, before you repair the rust damage, the stripping process may damage the repair since there is no plating to remove. Second I would repair/metal finish the bumper before having a minimum of copper/acid copper applied.(you don't want to loose the detail of the "Willy's" stamping!). I would almost always go over the parts after the copper coat to clean up the edges, bolt holes, etc. and bring it to a #220 grit finish or better. Also, you can save "money out of your pocket" since most of the cost of plating is usually in the manual labor .
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  #413  
Old 11-17-2015, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Francis View Post
Since I have followed this build from the start, and seeing the work/level of detail you are doing, unless you have a very good plater that you trust, I would recommend, if possible, to have the bumper stripped now, before you repair the rust damage, the stripping process may damage the repair since there is no plating to remove. Second I would repair/metal finish the bumper before having a minimum of copper/acid copper applied.(you don't want to loose the detail of the "Willy's" stamping!). I would almost always go over the parts after the copper coat to clean up the edges, bolt holes, etc. and bring it to a #220 grit finish or better. Also, you can save "money out of your pocket" since most of the cost of plating is usually in the manual labor .
Thanks John. Sounds like the best coarse of action to take when the time comes.
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  #414  
Old 11-17-2015, 07:20 AM
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Marcus, great to see all the Willys details, that tail gate is a beauty. Nice work you are doing!
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  #415  
Old 11-18-2015, 03:01 AM
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Marcus, great to see all the Willys details, that tail gate is a beauty. Nice work you are doing!
Many thanks Robert.
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  #416  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:57 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hey Marcus.

I would agree, with John Francis, you should always repair your bars after chrome stripping, you also never know what previous repairs have been done.
Your doing a mighty fine job of the Willy's, you may have to be the Instructor at the next meet in a few weeks time.
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  #417  
Old 11-19-2015, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldnek View Post
Hey Marcus.

I would agree, with John Francis, you should always repair your bars after chrome stripping, you also never know what previous repairs have been done.
Your doing a mighty fine job of the Willy's, you may have to be the Instructor at the next meet in a few weeks time.
Be good to catch up with you again there.

Hoping to bring parts of the roof that I want to pancake and make the pieces in between needed for the extra cab length and width. Maybe Dennis will be kind enough to bring his powered roller again.
Not doing another bowl this time.
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  #418  
Old 11-19-2015, 06:58 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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A Bowl.

Your a little more professional now Marcus, How bout we call them Hubcaps, So if you get a little board you can make another 3, then you will have a set.
Looking forward to catching up.
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  #419  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:17 AM
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A little update.

Think this is the last major original pieces to be chopped up. This is to make the grille nearly 9" wider overall.


So this is my new 10 slot grille just balancing together for the photo. Still need to add a couple of inches each side in the headlight area yet.


Can see with the original 1958 8 slot grille next to it how much wider it is.


The 1948 10 slot grille next to it. So it keeps the tie in with that and the age of the chassis and original cab too.


All together it is easier to see the differences. Thinking I might leave the horizontal grille bars off too, but we'll see.


Left over pieces might be good for a golf buggy or rock crawler.
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Marcus
aka. Gojeep
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 07:50 PM.
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  #420  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:58 AM
kiwi john kiwi john is offline
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Beautiful work as always Marcus

I guess you want to keep as much tin as you can from the original bodies, but why not just knock a new grill from scratch ?
Or do you just enjoy the challenge ?

Looking forward to catching up with you guys soon

Cheers John
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