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  #921  
Old 04-25-2019, 07:18 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Marcus
SEM has two products that are expanding foam.
One expands with more pressure and might bulge the skin up.
I have used the less expanding one between a roof skin and bracing and it worked great,
A little pricey, comes in two part cartridge with mixing nozzle. Requires a special double plunger applicator gun. Similar to a house calling gun but with side by side plungers.
Your local paint jobber might have a gun that you could rent or use if you buy the product from them.
The cartridge is about $50.00 us.

Steve
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  #922  
Old 04-25-2019, 02:05 PM
norson norson is offline
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Carefull. I worked for a car company that used this type of stuff and during the normal production run everything was fine. then when they moved production for replacement parts the problems started. At anyplace it was placed the panel was distorted. The production parts were made in Ohio and the replacements were made in Mexico. I don't know if it was a temperature issue or a change in product and it only affected 100 or so hoods that we scrapped, but you have only one.
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Last edited by norson; 04-25-2019 at 06:23 PM.
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  #923  
Old 04-25-2019, 06:09 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
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Marcus,

Have you considered a PRC sealant as used on aircraft? Totally watertight, flexible and will stop any dissimilar metal rot in your joints.

Can send you a spare tube of this to play with if you send me your address.

https://www.e-aircraftsupply.com/pro...7763/PR1440A12

Will

PS - Yours is still by far the most impressive thread in here. If you don't get a complementary 12 month MSOM at the end of it you'll have been cheated.
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  #924  
Old 04-25-2019, 08:58 PM
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Marcus, the only thing you should use is anti flutter foam. It's designed specifically for what you want to do and has the consistency of a car washing sponge. Fusor and 3M make it. Both work well. Anything firmer than this will start pushing up high spots after puttting some miles on the vehicle or closing the hood a few times.
The double barrel applicator guns are on fleaBays for around $30
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Last edited by Jack 1957; 04-25-2019 at 09:01 PM.
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  #925  
Old 04-26-2019, 05:24 AM
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Great feedback from everybody.

I am not worried at all about sealing it to keep the moisture out as will be coated before assembly and the dimpled holes and condensation etc will get in between anyway. As the supports conform to the shape with very little gap, might be better just left with nothing but paint in between? Then it can grow and shrink without disturbance or restriction. The originals supports, on the flanages not spot welded directly to the skin, were done this way.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 04-26-2019 at 05:27 AM.
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  #926  
Old 04-26-2019, 05:28 AM
James. V. D. W James. V. D. W is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Marcus, the only thing you should use is anti flutter foam. It's designed specifically for what you want to do and has the consistency of a car washing sponge. Fusor and 3M make it. Both work well. Anything firmer than this will start pushing up high spots after puttting some miles on the vehicle or closing the hood a few times.
The double barrel applicator guns are on fleaBays for around $30

Good to know. Will have to stay away from windshield adhesive in the future. Never even thought of that. A day without learning is a day wasted!
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  #927  
Old 04-27-2019, 05:09 PM
Stevemo Stevemo is offline
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Has anybody tried using the pickling acid in a one piece fiberglass tub/shower enclosure? Putting the enclosure on its side would make it large enough for a door and hood parts.
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  #928  
Old 04-27-2019, 07:50 PM
norson norson is offline
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I use a livestock water trough. 300 gallons. I've done model a doors, cowls and quarters. The rectangular tank is anti-spill container of 250 gallons. Another way I've used to limit rust from forming in pinch weld or fold-over areas is to use "Penitrol".It is an oil based paint product that can "creep" into impossible to reach areas and protect from rust.

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Last edited by galooph; 04-28-2019 at 04:09 AM.
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  #929  
Old 04-28-2019, 05:36 AM
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Thought I would check for the first time how I am for clearance with the headlight buckets and radiator.


Looks like I knew what I was doing! This is why I didn't want to move the headlight across when I widened that area.


Just enough room between them to run a support through.


This shows how much I miss shutting the bonnet though as it hits the radiator filler neck and the power steering reservoir.


So why not improve function and form together! Always my goal.


So I have added in 50mm/2" to the height of the grille. This helps as I can lower the radiator and still keep it within the frame or flange that runs along the bottom so the core sits up against the back of the grille. Also the top part of the grille wasn't letting any airflow through anyway and need that area for the lower part of the bonnet latch support. Win win!


Can really see the size difference, but think it disguises the extra 9" of width and the 2" of extra height only helps the proportions.
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  #930  
Old 04-28-2019, 06:48 AM
galooph galooph is offline
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Very clever solution, and it looks 'right' as well. I imagine welding the vertical sections was interesting!
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