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  #1431  
Old 07-25-2020, 06:48 PM
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Time to get started on the body and dash wiring harnesses!


Laid them out to sort them into their groups. I started with the dash harness first as I will be using that completely. It all plugged back in to where is was before and even the same holes for the harness ties etc. Big advantage of using the donor firewall/floor and dash support.


Now the surgery begins on the body harness. Lots here I won't be using so have to un-tape it and take out one wire at a time in most cases and trace them back to their source. Can't just cut both ends and pull it out as often the factory had other wires spliced into it with something I do want to keep! I always left enough wire from a major junction plug just in case I made a mistake or want to tap into it later on for something else.


The inspector has arrived! Starting to tidy the wire back up into groups again as they were laid out in the donor. Working the bundles in from the ends towards the middle. Fortunately I had labeled everything as I was stripping the donor in the first place. Also the unused plugs. I started with removing those first and often ended up at another set of used plugs. Nothing was plugged in or attached to the harness along the whole way. Most likely for things like optional DVD player and satellite radio etc.


The coiled up wire is some of what I removed. All the wiring for the rear doors, tailgate etc. I also rolled up and bundled all the airbag sensor and bag wiring together. I should have checked to see if the engine would start and drive without the airbag module connected before I started stripping the donor. I have left all the sensors connected and will plug into the module to start with. If it starts and runs I can then just unplug it all and remove it. Hopefully I don't have to plug in all the airbags as well to get it to run! Would have to use simulators in that case.


Dash harness all in but still a lot of sorting once things are in their new places. I have for instance put the factory amplifier in the dash where the passenger airbag used to be. The wiring for it used to extend all the way to the back of the Jeep and was mounted under the D pillar trim by the rear hatch.


I found a good spot for the park assist and transfercase, (FDCM), modules that were mounted under the back seat. I am mounting them where the rear DVD player went on some optioned up models from mine in the back of the console. Rear cover clips in over it and you won't know it is there.


I have shortened and extended harnesses for things as I have them mounted in their final position. Unfortunately that big thick loop of wire is all extra length I don't need! Can't say I am looking forward to cutting one wire at a time and shortening the whole thing. This is extra because the harness used to run down each side of the cabin by the door sills and crossover under the back seat area. I have run it all under the console instead as my door seal is flush with the floor height and it now also doesn't cross over as far back. Tempting to pull the excess back under the dash somewhere and loop it or under the seats on the floor. Another thing that worries me is this is all run on a CAN-bus system with twisted pairs of wires running the data. I don't know if shortening those wires such a great deal will affect the resistance too much and cause errors? I just don't know enough about this and this is all a big learning curve for me. Has cutting out the rear doors and hatch wiring even affected it? If anyone knows more about this, please chime in.
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  #1432  
Old 07-25-2020, 08:14 PM
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I believe twisted pair wires are just for interference, not to do with resistance. I took the wires for my VSS and added about 7-8' of regular auto wire that I chucked up in my drill and twisted. It works fine.
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  #1433  
Old 07-26-2020, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
I believe twisted pair wires are just for interference, not to do with resistance. I took the wires for my VSS and added about 7-8' of regular auto wire that I chucked up in my drill and twisted. It works fine.
You are right. Twisted for EMI protection, so length shouldn't effect it.
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  #1434  
Old 07-26-2020, 07:53 AM
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Wow, just think of all the color coded wire you will have available for future repairs or modifications!
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  #1435  
Old 07-26-2020, 08:11 AM
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Wow, just think of all the color coded wire you will have available for future repairs or modifications!

Them pieces are gold for sure.
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  #1436  
Old 07-26-2020, 09:47 AM
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Coming right along! The pre planning and work involved in using all the donor vehicle components is amazing! I always look forward to any of your updates.
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  #1437  
Old 07-27-2020, 05:43 AM
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Thanks guys.
I have been using the left over wire already to match gauge and color coding when i have had to extend some of them.
Be keeping it all for sure.
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  #1438  
Old 07-27-2020, 06:05 AM
Fargoman Fargoman is offline
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I have a W166 Mercedes that I disabled the airbags (unintentionally) and it still ran, just had a warning message on the dash.

Considering Mercedes and Chrysler were in bed together when my car was designed I would expect the Jeep to be the same.

I know if you try and remove the airbag light unit it sets off a chime.
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  #1439  
Old 07-28-2020, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fargoman View Post
I have a W166 Mercedes that I disabled the airbags (unintentionally) and it still ran, just had a warning message on the dash.

Considering Mercedes and Chrysler were in bed together when my car was designed I would expect the Jeep to be the same.

I know if you try and remove the airbag light unit it sets off a chime.
Good to know. I could just plug in some emulators or paint over the light.
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  #1440  
Old 07-28-2020, 09:45 PM
daveb daveb is offline
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More incredible work !!!
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