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  #1671  
Old 01-24-2021, 09:34 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
That came up well Jack. Glad you did so well cutting the glass again. I can't remember what you used to sand the edges with afterwards?
See page 75 of this thread.
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  #1672  
Old 01-24-2021, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
The new bit came today so I jumped back on the windshield. I finished cutting the left side then sanded the edge smooth. No cracks or problems. That's a load off my mind.


Attachment 58669




Attachment 58670




Attachment 58671


This is Armour Etch. It's a very strong acid used to etch glass. It actually erodes the glass surface and leaves a flat, slightly coarse surface that allows paint to stick tight. No flaking or pealing.


Attachment 58672


The tan colored tape is plastic like packing tape and really keeps a tight seal. The acid won't effect it and won't allow the acid to seep under it. It leaves a super clean edge.
The blue tape is just masking tape along the outer edge to prevent the acid from seeping into the plastic laminate between the two layers of glass.


Attachment 58673


Lots of protective gear for this part. This acid is dangerous. Actually, I'm surprised they sell it retail. Keep a bucket of water handy, rubber gloves, eye protection, ventilation, etc.. You just brush it on, let it set for a few minutes and squeegy it off with a bondo spreader, and wipe the surface with water and a rag. I was doing this in sections about 12 to 18 inches. After it's etched you can feel the slightly rough surface. It has a whitish look to it but once the black paint is on it, that goes away.
After the etched surface is thoroughly cleaned and dried, I just used a Rustoleum black spray bomb to paint it. Enamels are best for unprimed surfaces. It dries slow, it's relatively durable, and it doesn't go brittle over time.



Attachment 58675


Done.


I'll probably install it tomorrow.



Attachment 58676

So nice to see the glass finished, Jack.
Complex and detailed, with risks ever present.


(ps, "hydrofluoric" used to be the acid we'd etch glass art work with. Good to see this product now.)
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  #1673  
Old 01-24-2021, 11:40 AM
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Kent, the warning doesn't go into detail but says "Amonium/Sodium Bifluorides". Common sense mandates that if you can't spell it, or even pronounce it, DON'T TOUCH IT.
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  #1674  
Old 01-24-2021, 11:58 AM
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hi Jack

there are only 56 pages in this thread.

I cant find the post for sanding the glass.

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  #1675  
Old 01-24-2021, 12:11 PM
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Steve, I'm showing 168 pages Anyway, I used a DA sander and 40 grit to knock down the rough edges, then 80 grit to smooth it out. Dry, no water needed. Light pressure and don't focus on any one spot for too long. It builds up heat if you do.
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  #1676  
Old 01-24-2021, 12:12 PM
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I have 84 pages.
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my project:
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=154
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  #1677  
Old 01-24-2021, 12:14 PM
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That's odd.
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  #1678  
Old 01-24-2021, 12:19 PM
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Nah, it's in user preferences, how many posts one wants to see per page.
I now know you're seeing double the pages as I am, so I went back to page 38 and found the glass info.
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  #1679  
Old 01-24-2021, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I need to cut the windshield and my Go-To guy is going for a knee replacement Monday so I'm on my own. I've done this before on my 57 Chevy but I don't like working with glass. I got it first time with the 57 and chalked it up to dumb luck. I don't recommend this method but I'm going to cover everything I do so here it is:
The reason for cutting is that the Buick windshield has a forward leaning A pillar which is what I want but the angle is too steep. On the original application, they used an inverted pie slice shaped vent window which allowed the run channel for the door glass to be vertical. I'm not using a vent window so the run channel will be angled and the door window will move rearward as it is rolled down. I allowed for this when I was working on the doors. Do you remember that I cut the top 12 inches of the back edge of the doors and leaned them forward? I wasn't just goofing off. This was the reason for doing that. I need the room back there to let the windows come down without hitting the inside of the door frame.
You can see in the picture below that the piece I'm cutting out is wedge shaped. I used striping tape to mark the cut. Masking tape can come off from the water. I set up a hose to trickle water over the work area.

Attachment 43700

I use a Roto Zip and a 1/8" diamond bit. This one is 40 grit but if you were going to do this, I would recommend an 80 grit bit. It may cut a little slower but will give a smoother edge on the glass.

Attachment 43701

Slow and steady. Patience is the main ingredient. Get in a comfortable position and take a break when you need to. Once I got in about 3 inches, I put spring clamps on to keep the waste glass from vibrating and causing a crack. Also, make small stress relief cuts every few inches.

Attachment 43702

Attachment 43703

Next, just smooth out the ragged edges with 40 grit paper, then 80 grit on a DA and it's done.

Attachment 43704

I started on the upper frame first. I'm using 1" x 2" rectangle tube on top and 1"x 1" on the sides. There will be additional 18ga sheet metal layers also. I put reference mark every couple inches along the length starting from the center and going out toward the ends. This is just to help locate exactly where it might need more work when going back and forth from the bender to the windshield.

Attachment 43705

This will be bent in the vertical and horizontal planes so it goes through the process twice. Start bending from the center outward and creep up on it til you have the right shape. Many small bends to minimize kinking.

Attachment 43706
Here is the post on cutting the glass and sanding it

Steve
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  #1680  
Old 01-25-2021, 12:49 AM
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I masked off thearea around the windshield to prevent getting any of the windshield adhesive on the dash or frame. It's difficult to remove if it gets on anything it's not supposed to be on.


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I use DuPont Betaseal U-418 on windshields. It's a fast cure version of the U-428. This is what most OEMs use and it costs less than half of what 3M Window Weld costs.


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Dave to the rescue again. I had my buddy stop by and help me set the windshield. They aren't that heavy but they're big and have to be set in accurately to avoid smearing the bead of urethane. It laid down perfectly. Perfect fit. I was surprised at how accurate I made the frame considering I was in the rough-in stage when I built it.
I do remember spending a lot of time getting the windshield frame as accurate as possible when I was getting everything roughed in, but I had to guesstimate some things in the process.
I went around the perimeter with a flash light to check for full seal and found an area about 2 inches wide along the top edge that didn't seat. I gradually slid the windshield side to side while applying pressure to the front face and managed to reduce that gap to less than one inch.

I'll let it cure like that and fill that gap tomorrow. The glass needs to be installed in its relaxed state. You shouldn't squeeze and clamp till the adhesive dries to seal a problem like this. The pressure built in will eventually crack the glass.
I'll put the reveal moldings on after I seal up this spot.


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