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  #11  
Old 02-03-2019, 11:43 PM
norson norson is offline
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I would not be taking off the doors until I had locked in the door gaps and body lines. Cross bracing every where and measuring all of the bracing to make sure everything is square. Imagine a shoe box without a lid, cut two doors in the sides and cut the bottom out. Now grab each end and twist and turn it. Your job is to make it so you can't twist it out of shape. In fact I think I would solidly tack the doors in place until I had the floors welded in.
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2019, 08:44 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi Norm,

Good advice. I have been able to open and close the doors with no change in the door gap as I've been measuring this as I clean out some of the trim, wiring, glass, engine, tranny, etc. with it on it's wheels. Before I go any further I am going to reinforce the door openings and the overall structure with square tubing this week.
Then I'll get it ready for a rotisserie and take & keep all the measurements I can.

Great suggestions, Norm, Thanks.

TX
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  #13  
Old 02-04-2019, 05:25 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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I would be tempted to use something heavier than 1/2"; maybe 5/8" SHS, just to be sure that it doesn't move.

Good advice from everyone on this post – don't rush into it,

Cheers Charlie
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  #14  
Old 02-04-2019, 06:32 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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I’d use 1” or at least ¾” black water pipe (preferably used) but I tend to be a cheap ass. Temporary bracing doesn’t have to be pretty, you can even crush the ends together so you have an edge to weld to. 10 small tacks on each end is much easier to cut out than a continuous weld at the end of the job.

Be ultra-careful when you run welds across that floor pan or rockers, continuous welds will shrink and pull the door gaps tighter or worse even with the bracing in, you just will not know till you cut it out. Better off to tack & tack, plug weld & plug weld, keep moving around when welding, keep the heat down in the panels as much as possible. Getting real good door gaps on a convertible is always a bit of a challenge when replacing the floor & rockers. I clipped a dozen or more cars with a gas torch before I bought a mig welder in 1978 or 79, The mig was a blessing just because it didn’t build up so much heat in a job like that. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2019, 11:59 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi John,

I too after thinking about it that the 1/2" tubing would be to small. I since went and purchased 1" .065 square tube and that should work well and still do the honey do project for the spring.

About the heat issue, thanks, I have read about the weld, move a 1"+ weld move approach and how heat is the enemy when doing these repairs, so you have confirmed what I suspected, I appreciate that!

TX
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  #16  
Old 02-06-2019, 11:42 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
Hi John,

I too after thinking about it that the 1/2" tubing would be to small. I since went and purchased 1" .065 square tube and that should work well and still do the honey do project for the spring.

About the heat issue, thanks, I have read about the weld, move a 1"+ weld move approach and how heat is the enemy when doing these repairs, so you have confirmed what I suspected, I appreciate that!

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
I’d say a 4” to 6” jump would be more like it. I saw this problem quite often because I was a heavy man in the collision business for quite a few years. Many times I was talked into correcting other people’s mistakes, after the job was finished & payment was long gone so no fun for me. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #17  
Old 02-07-2019, 05:26 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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OK John,

That is good information. I will take your suggestion and go with it.

TX
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  #18  
Old 02-08-2019, 07:58 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Are you going to do all the floor at once, Cut the lot out as whole or only do 1/4 sections, and are you replacing your sills.
Is it going on a rotisserie or are you just going to level the body up on car stands.
If your doing the whole floor and fitting the body to a rotisserie then you need to brace the body from A pillar to B pillar or back to wheel houses and then cross brace diagonally.
If your are only replacing the floor in sections, then bracing from Pillar to pillar is more than enough. And 25mm by 2mm RHS is more than adequate.
If your placing it on a rotisserie and removing floors and sills then stronger bracing is required. And place your bracing at height that you can have full access to do your work.
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  #19  
Old 02-08-2019, 09:54 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi Oldnek John,

Great advice I really appreciate it. I was going to rotisserie the car by a pipe through the middle of the car front to back, as these cars have a hole in the firewall, that with plywood filler in front and the back seat area makes great points of attachment.
I was planning on doing the floor in 1/4 sections, maybe 1/2 on the rotisserie for easy access. I will take your advice and do as much temp framing as possible to keep the car straight and square.

Again, TX
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  #20  
Old 02-08-2019, 10:23 PM
norson norson is offline
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It's unclear if the tunnel is compromised. If it's solid I'd retain it.
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