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  #1201  
Old 03-30-2019, 05:26 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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That bumper looks great Jack. Can you see any difference in colors?


BTW, we'll have material bow when we polish one side only. It shrinks when it cools down. We then polish the other side to straighten it out.
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  #1202  
Old 03-30-2019, 06:36 PM
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That bumper looks great Jack. Can you see any difference in colors?

If I get up close and know where to look I can see the welds. The fill rod is slightly yellower than the 430. It isn't noticable overall, though. Nothing to worry about.
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  #1203  
Old 03-30-2019, 06:53 PM
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The bumper turned out real nice. The entire project is coming along very nicely. Did I read it and forget about it, but what are you doing for lenses for the tail lights? Molding your own as well?
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  #1204  
Old 03-30-2019, 06:56 PM
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I set up the bumper to try to restore the original curve. I used a ratchet binder on the mounting plates to put tension on it and help draw it inward while I welded 1" long stitches spaced 1" apart. it took a couple test fits to get it where I wanted it. I welded along the upper edge also and got it to fit properly.


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It fits tight but it's the right shape. When I start the bodywork, I'll have to loosen up the fit or it will chip the paint trying to install it. It can't be too tight against the body.


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While I had all the polishing equipment out, I wanted to see how well this A356 alloy would polish so I did one of the front parking lamp grills. Looks pretty good. I'll do the other tomorrow and move on.
I need to get on the last major fabrication project (the roof) while the car is still on stands and level.


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Meanwhile, in Iowa, Kelly was successful in casting four back up sensor bezels and two side view mirror stands for me. Looks like they came out great. They're on their way back to me. Thanks, Kelly.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 03-30-2019 at 07:06 PM.
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  #1205  
Old 03-30-2019, 08:11 PM
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... what are you doing for lenses for the tail lights? Molding your own as well?

I have some 3/16" transparent red plexiglass to make them from. I need to make a quicky mold. They are simetrical so I'll only need one mold. I don't think I'll mess with them right now. I need to wrap up the major fabricating first. I usually have 2 or 3 different things going on at one time, a large job and a couple small ones. If I start getting burned out on the large job I take a day off and work on a small job. The lights are on the small job list.
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  #1206  
Old 03-31-2019, 06:25 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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That Bar is Bloody Beautiful, Jack!
Love your progress and your delivery on these ideas and designs.
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  #1207  
Old 03-31-2019, 07:08 AM
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If I get up close and know where to look I can see the welds. The fill rod is slightly yellower than the 430. It isn't noticable overall, though. Nothing to worry about.

Excellent.
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  #1208  
Old 03-31-2019, 09:25 AM
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Jack

You managed to pull it off. When you started with the tube and plate design, i thought this could be a real struggle.

you showed use that with caution and determination a fantastic result is possible!!!!

Steve
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  #1209  
Old 03-31-2019, 09:52 AM
Mario428 Mario428 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I set up the bumper to try to restore the original curve. I used a ratchet binder on the mounting plates to put tension on it and help draw it inward while I welded 1" long stitches spaced 1" apart. it took a couple test fits to get it where I wanted it. I welded along the upper edge also and got it to fit properly.


Attachment 52089

Glad it worked out for you Jack, you do some awesome work, thanks again for sharing
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  #1210  
Old 03-31-2019, 11:01 PM
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Moving on, I'm going to start the roof frame next. I have some 6061 stock left from a previous job so I'm going to use that up. This would be easier with a softer alloy but I need to get some of this stuff off the shelves. The top plate is T6511 and the square tube is T6. It will all have to be annealed. T6 is pretty easy to work with in the backyard shop. Annealing some alloys is a very precise process, but T6 can be annealed without sophisticated equipment

You'll need a torch with a rosebud tip, a Sharpie, and a bucket of water. That's it! I am also using a no touch thermometer for a little more accuracy but I'll show you how to get er done without it. This, like most of what I do, is not written on stone tablets. It's what I've learned over the years and I know that it works.
First, use the Sharpie marker to lay down some random marks along the length of the workpiece. Then use the torch with acetylene only to lay down a layer of soot. When that's done heat the piece evenly with the torch set at a neutral flame. I didn't do this piece all at one time. I did this one in 4 different sections. It would be too difficult to hold even temperature through the whole length if I tried to do it all at once.

The first thing you'll see is the soot burning off. I don't really soot these to use it as a temerature indicator. I use soot because the no touch thermometer doesn't always read shiney surfaces accurately. The soot burns off and leaves the surface darker and dull.

When the soot is gone watch for the Sharpie marks to start disappearing. As the temperature increases the marks will be almost gone. At this point it's probably around 550 or 600 degrees. I want to be around 600 to 700 degrees. At this point I start using the no touch thermometer but you don't really have to have one. Once the material is over 600, it will start taking on a very slightly yellowish tint. That's enough to get the job done. You are somewhere between 600 anf 700 degrees. I use a soaking wet rag to quickly quench, then move on to the next section.
Keep in mind that this is a fairly thick panel. It's 3/8" thick. I have more wiggle room and work time than if I were working with thin sheet. Also, I was heating the piece from the top and bottom surfaces to be sure the heat was through and through. (Not needed with thin sheet.)


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The piece will sag and droop from the heat but don't worry about it. After quenching, this stuff will shape and bend like Play Doh. I took this warped bent piece over to the bench and bent it straight by hand in less than 5 minutes.


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The front leading edge of the windsield frame has a sligth curve fore and aft that duplicates the curve of the windshield I need to put that in on the upper plate so I edge wheeled the plate until I got the same curve as the windshield frame. This stuff is so soft now that it shapes very quickly. Even as thick as it is. This only took about 15 minutes to wheel.


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When I put the epoxy primer on the windshield frame, I painted over my center line mark so I had to use use the laser to find it again. I lined the laser up to a mark in front and behind the windshield (circled) then marked the center. I was still able to bend the plate by hand so I started doing the vertical shape next. It might have work hardened a little but not nearly back to its original strength. The long curve in the middle was beant by hand. Then I clamped the plate to the windshield frame and used C clamps and a dead blow mallet to bring the tighter curves in on the ends. I would tighten the C clamps on the ends to draw the plate down the bump it with the mallet to "set" the bends. A little at a time until I had what I needed. There will be some springback but there will also be a gap needed for the weatherstrip. I can do some adjusting later.

I reheated the ends with the torch to let the aluminum relax in its present shape. When it cooled off, I released the clamps and trimmed the ends off. It now sets in place with no gaps. T6 will regain most of its hardness over time. It starts within a few hours of annealing. That's why I anneal only what I'll be using at the moment, piece by piece.




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Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 07-10-2019 at 10:19 PM.
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