#11
|
|||
|
|||
Hi,
To help with your issue, you can try this. If you pre-thin the material at the bend line, you can get a crisp bend in a machine like yours. To thin the bend line, you can use two tight radius dies in a bead roller, pullmax or with a corking tool by hand. A simple experiment in your material will tell you "how far" to thin, for the tight crisp line you are looking for. B
__________________
Bill Tromblay "A sign of a good machinist, is one who can fix his F$@& Ups" My mentor and friend, Gil Zietz Micro Metric Machine. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
When bending a long piece, insert a 6 inch (experiment w/ length and thickness) wide shim between the underside of the workpiece and the bending leaf to limit the bending of the workpiece to the width of the shim. Incrementally slide the shim back and forth along the length of the workpiece making a local bend at each location using the leaf. The shim allows the full length of the workpiece to be clamped, but provides a small bend length so as not to excessively deflect the structure. Taper or radius the sides of the shim so they do not mark the workpiece. It is a process somewhat like hammer forming but you are locally bending with the brake instead of a hammer.
__________________
Richard Chandler |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
John Last edited by John Buchtenkirch; 03-04-2021 at 06:54 PM. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|