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  #21  
Old 03-05-2021, 04:24 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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You have done well on that B pillar as not an easy shape to get right, that is for sure.
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  #22  
Old 03-05-2021, 09:35 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Thanks Marcus.
I rolled it over to work on the upper half and patched where I cut out the B post.

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The rotisserie sure saves these old bones. I cannot imagine trying to do this bending over, or lying on my back.
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  #23  
Old 03-28-2021, 09:17 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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I filled the driver quarter panel and cut a window pattern to determine how much I need to add to give me a flat quarter window opening.

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This is a view of the upper, the lower lip is fairly straight, so I will start there, and then see if I can modify one of the original front widow sills to make a smooth arc on the upper.
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  #24  
Old 03-29-2021, 01:48 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Eugene. It looks good. It's just a small piece ..... but the time before it works.
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  #25  
Old 03-29-2021, 04:59 AM
edwin1 edwin1 is offline
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Nice work, following from Belgium.
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  #26  
Old 03-29-2021, 02:17 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Very nice work, Eugene.

Sectioning door skins can be some patient effort.
... And problem solving if prior "metalwork" has been thrown in .....
Your welds show a proven method. Good to see.

Will you file or use a 9in sidewinder with a 50grit?
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  #27  
Old 03-29-2021, 03:26 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Thanks guys. I've picked up a lot of information and technique from all your postings.

Kent, I have used a Henrob for years, but now I a Meco man. Not just the weight, but the flame itself seems to give me better control of the puddle. Then adding the Piezo electric striker to the gas saver prompts me to hang the torch up and spend enough time working the joint to control the warping.

I have started to grind the welds with a four inch, then hammer and dolly and finally touch with a vixen to knock off the high spots. I picked up a GL2 and it speeds up the process, and allows me to either hand when I have awkward access. I haven't started to sand yet, but experimented with a flap disc and see the problem with it following the depressions.
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Last edited by Reno; 03-29-2021 at 03:35 PM.
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  #28  
Old 03-30-2021, 02:44 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reno View Post
Thanks guys.



.....prompts me to hang the torch up and spend enough time working the joint to control the warping.

..... experimented with a flap disc and see the problem with it following the depressions.

Hi Eugene,
Speed onto the hot metal helps after welding.

...speed almost always helps when slogging too slowly .... but your technique looks good.


Maybe these will help you gain some speed and accuracy :
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This fella is holding an "Effie" front fender, in the air hammer, while welding - and while planishing.
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Torch stays on until the seam is fully welded, in the Hammer.
("Hot planishing" is the old term used in the shops, 50+ years ago.... )


Then, re-setting the Hammer for "nit picking" low spots, or for shrinking high spots down - hot.

When level, the part is removed from the machine and then "metal finished".

A kiss-0ver with the sharp Vixen (a flick of the fingernail should cause a flurry of wispy shavings in the air) shows last bits needing attention.


Then a FIRM backing pad on a 6in circular sander w/180 =
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Left side shows needing more planishing.
Note: pattern is specific for 2nd pass. First passes are 90 deg to this.


Yeehaw - you are on track if you can hold your door in your air whacker with one hand and weld with t'other ... air whacker is yer 3rd hand .
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  #29  
Old 03-31-2021, 05:18 PM
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racer-john racer-john is offline
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Reno, I was remiss in not thanking you for the info on the "bug".THANKS.
The work you are doing is great, waiting for more pictures and words.
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