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  #1  
Old 01-31-2019, 12:41 AM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Default Convertible floor replacement question

Hello Group,

I have a 1952 Morris Minor Tourer (convertible) that needs new floors. I can buy them from the UK $$$ but I'm going to make them.
My Question is, how best to do a temp frame on the inside and how should it look to keep the car in proper form. These cars are Unibody from the fire wall back, and have 2 frame rails forward that are connected with inner fender, and floor panels. Pictures attached.

I'm new to this but I do know that if I cut it all out at once the car will loose a lot of support, so I plan on 1 side at a time, is this a good plan? I have to do the floors from the firewall all the way to the back seat including the bottom of the reinforcement box with the row of holes in it. The rest of the car is quite solid and needs little to no work.

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It's a early UK export and a donor is hard to find, and probably not any better shape.

looking forward to a discussion and hopefully some advice.

TX

Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 01-31-2019 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:57 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Hi Chris.
Those floors are pretty easy to do, no shape in the front floor sections as they are flat, except for memory the back part of the front floor has a hollow(Like foot well incorporated) into it and curves to the tunnel which is short. Its easier to make from 2 pieces and run a joggle inline with the B Pillar. The one I did had a support running under the floor from around 100mm from the handbrake.
I just plug welded the joggle of the 2 floor sections to that. Bead rollered the floor panels (series of square and rectangles) Tipped the edges to the sills.
By the way, if the sills are stuffed, there a 5 piece panel, so order must be adhered to to produce factory look.
I can't tell you how the area where the back seat, as the one I did was OK and didn't need any work there.
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Old 02-01-2019, 06:45 PM
norson norson is offline
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Before you do ANY cutting make sure you have the doors tacked/welded, square and solid, every thing crossed braced, etc. I only bring this up because it hasn't been brought up yet. A convertible in that condition could come apart without much of a bump.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:11 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norson View Post
Before you do ANY cutting make sure you have the doors tacked/welded, square and solid, every thing crossed braced, etc. I only bring this up because it hasn't been brought up yet. A convertible in that condition could come apart without much of a bump.
Good point, absolutely brace it on the inside.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:14 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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The one I did was a Four door, so the line from the B pillar might not have a sub frame brace from sill to sill on the 2 door.
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Old 02-02-2019, 11:56 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hey Guys,

This is the exact information I was asking about. How do I go about the bracing? I have an idea that the car needs to be kept square and stay flat in the sense of the doors not hitting the "B" pillar from a sagging floor. But what I'm not getting is how do I go about this?

From my pictures do I put a brace between the "B" pillar? Front to back how do you brace it? I have been watching the Cadillac Roadster build by Jack and he seems to have done something to give support, is that what I need to do, is just get it where I can to keep it in shape? And Dane has done the Rambler with some temp bracing, follow his lead too?

I'm better at copying things than figuring it out on my own (left side brain, and handed) that's why I'm struggling with what makes for the proper temp supports.

Always look forward to the help!

P.S. There is a cross member as Oldnek says, just in front of the missing floor panel holes.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris

Last edited by Mr fixit; 02-02-2019 at 11:58 PM. Reason: Oldnek Answer
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:24 PM
Cardiffrob Cardiffrob is offline
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Here is mine, a 1949 car, so slightly different floor panels round the edges.

The floor wasn't bad so I didn't need much bracing but running a cross over the 4 corners of the door hole would be a good start.

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Last edited by galooph; 02-03-2019 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 02-03-2019, 03:56 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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HI Rob,

That looks like in very good condition for the age and being in the UK. As a side note what color are you using in a modern paint? The reason I ask is my car was possibly this colour if it is the Mist Green as listed as a original colour for a early 1952 tourer.

OK I get what your saying on the X and what it would do for strength. Do you think it should be for the whole side of the car or just the door opening? I plan on a stiffener across the car at the "B" pillar to keep that shape as well.

Looks like I need to get started with temp frame work to keep the car in shape.

TX
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Chris
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Old 02-03-2019, 05:36 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr fixit View Post
...

This is the exact information I was asking about. How do I go about the bracing? I have an idea that the car needs to be kept square and stay flat in the sense of the doors not hitting the "B" pillar from a sagging floor. But what I'm not getting is how do I go about this?

...
I'm better at copying things than figuring it out on my own (left side brain, and handed) that's why I'm struggling with what makes for the proper temp supports.


TX
Mr fixit
Chris
G'Day Chris,
If the car was in good condition and the door was open, then it is not hard to imagine that the sills/rocker panels are stopping the car from snapping in two.

Because your car is so rusty, the strength to hold the front and the back of the car in place, has to come from something else. So once again imagine that the door is open, or that you have taken it off. Across the top of the door opening is one place where a strong tube can be welded or bolted between the gap. You should be able to make a brace with plates on the end to bolt into where the door hinges are and where the striker plate is fastened.

One brace across the top is not going to be strong enough, so another lower down with some diagonal bracing to the top brace in a convenient place, will stiffen it up. Think of a roof truss in a shed and you are on the right track. A truss will stop the front and back from falling vertically, but it won't stop the the back end from wiggling sideways, so an across-the-car brace – or two– will take care of that. The dashboard and bulkhead will take care of the front end.

Place the bracing where it won't get too much in the way, as you cut out rusty panels and replace them.

Measure all of the body dimensions before you cut out anything and draw them so you don't forget. Likewise make cardboard or paper patterns and test them in place, before cutting out the old steel. Doing one side first is handy because you can refer to the other side when you need to. Take heaps of reference photos. Use punch marks as reference-points to help align the new parts.

Now is a good time to check that the suspension points are in the right place on the car and to permanently mark a centre-line under the body, which will be useful later for wheel alignment etc. Even brand new cars have been made with the suspension mounts in the wrong place! Yours might have had a prang as well.

I have the same job to do on my Sunbeam Alpine, so I think I will set it up on a steel table to align and support everything.

Yes; copy what Dane has done and you won't go wrong.

Nice car! Good luck,

Cheers Charlie
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Old 02-03-2019, 08:52 PM
Mr fixit Mr fixit is offline
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Hi Charlie,

You are the MAN! You have answered all of the questions running around in my head and not being sure. You have given me terrific advice, just perfect.

I'm going to the steel yard tomorrow to buy 1/2 square tubing that I will use for the bracing.Then I have a honey do project that I can put some of it to use later, so that kind of finances the steel

I'll keep you posted as this is my first panel making from scratch. I've done repairs for smaller rust but this will be a first. Looking forward to it.

TX
Mr fixit
Chris
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