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  #11  
Old 08-14-2020, 04:27 AM
Antoine_P Antoine_P is offline
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That does look great! Taking time to weld is the key to avoid too much distortion 👍

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Resurrecting a 60 ghia:
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2020, 10:07 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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Since the door is longer it gets thinner so a section was taken out.

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Then the infill 7" piece fitted between the original skins.

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I thought I was butt welding at an area without much shape, but spent a lot of time with hammer and dolly and the shrinking disc to get to here. I failed to give myself decent access to the inside for the hand work.

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  #13  
Old 09-01-2020, 10:36 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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The passenger side was the worst damage. I used the hinge locater again and metalworked the crease on the right. It was pretty well pitted, but I probably could have gotten by with a single vertical joint between the two original skins if I had thought that far ahead.


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I sectioned the rear corner and will see if I can shape the rear half of the skin from new material to give an acceptable match tomorrow.

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  #14  
Old 09-03-2020, 08:49 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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I shaped a skin patch to complete the passenger side and then removed the old remaining section. It was too wide for my slip rolls, so I bent it over an old rim.


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With the hinge bolt locator in place I scribed and trimmed.

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I worked slower on this weld and ended up with less distortion.

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  #15  
Old 09-08-2020, 12:27 AM
Antoine_P Antoine_P is offline
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Great progress, thanks for sharing!

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Resurrecting a 60 ghia:
http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=18852
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  #16  
Old 09-09-2020, 09:54 AM
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Default 1950 Austin Devon

Any details on the "Bug"?
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2020, 10:02 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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John, it was a Craigslist find I picked up in a weak moment because it is a 1962 so smog exempt here. It was a California car, but had the typical rusted floor pans. I replaced them and the driverside A post and found a 1972 1500 engine to power it.
Then I found the Austin.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2020, 10:34 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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I hung the Dorset doors and the one with the most damage came out the best. Rookie mistake. I should have cut the B post out and tacked the door together in place. Anyway I had to cut the driverside door apart and change some dimensions. Then I found that there is so much damage in the rocker that needs to be replaced where the new B post position will be that I spent the day mounting the body on the rotisserie.


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  #19  
Old 02-16-2021, 11:04 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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I see I have been almost as long as Richard for a progress post, so I'll throw something up. I haven't been able to get the rebuilt drivers door to the opening so I left it and switched to the passenger door. The rocker panel was rusted badly so I made some templates so I check the shape after cutting the bad sections out.

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Then started on the "B" post. This was matching fairly well, but when I added the door jamb, my gaps went all screwy and I will probably have to make another one.



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  #20  
Old 03-04-2021, 10:47 PM
Reno Reno is offline
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I made another "B" post. The slight jog at the belt line makes all the difference in the door gap.

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After tipping the flange it twisted, but straightens up with the shrinker/stretcher.

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In place ready to scribe the jamb for cutting and welding.

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I cut out the "C" post and trimmed the lower rear door skin for a test fit.

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The upper of the door skin window is a square, so I will have to stretch it in the corner and curve it slightly to match the drip rail.

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Last edited by Reno; 03-04-2021 at 10:49 PM.
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