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  #21  
Old 02-26-2021, 11:02 PM
norson norson is offline
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What about the fixture table clamps that rely on side pressure? Drilling holes is an overpowering job.
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2021, 07:19 PM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default holes

My welding table has plain holes (5/8"), no threads. It is easier to keep a straight hole free from spatter than a threaded hole. There are commercial straight shank clamps available. I just weld a stub on a cheap wood clamp. The offset makes the peg wedge in the hole. I also made some shouldered pegs for squaring. 5/8" socket head bolt works too.
weld1.jpg

weld2.jpg
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2021, 10:23 PM
norson norson is offline
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Man, that's a lot of holes and my table is 3/4 inch thick and 4X8. I'm thinking I would want to start out more conservatively. Thanks for the response, by the way, I like the clamps you built.
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  #24  
Old 03-03-2021, 09:12 AM
sfm1951 sfm1951 is offline
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That is a lot of holes. Thinking about marking out the grid and drilling every other hole and drill others as needed. And maybe not tap the holes as I can get to the holes on the bottom. I might tap them later if and when I get a tapping attachment. Read that as when I win the lottery . Lol but somebody has to win right?
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  #25  
Old 03-04-2021, 06:10 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default Weld table

Full disclosure, I did not drill the holes. The table is a kit of laser cut parts. The laser cut holes actually work better than drilled hole. They grab the straight shanks better.



I got mine here, because it is 30 miles away and I saved on shipping. But any laser shop should be able to make a table. Depending on how you buy your steel, it may not cost much more, as they buy bulk and get a discount.


https://weldtables.com/products/copy...ab-slot-u-weld
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