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  #2071  
Old 12-02-2022, 06:01 AM
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123pugsy 123pugsy is offline
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That's light for it's size. My deck lid is 42 LBS.


I guess my hood in steel would be about the same as your lid.


Thanks, I hate the idea of using aluminum.
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  #2072  
Old 12-06-2022, 08:24 AM
MSTSFab MSTSFab is offline
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I wanted to write you a note and thank you Marcus.
I used a version of your idea for cleaning up the ends of rolled beads to chase in an offset in an area I couldn’t get back in the bead roller. It came out pretty decent. Thanks for sharing and teaching a newbie halfway across the world!
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  #2073  
Old 12-07-2022, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MSTSFab View Post
I wanted to write you a note and thank you Marcus.
I used a version of your idea for cleaning up the ends of rolled beads to chase in an offset in an area I couldn’t get back in the bead roller. It came out pretty decent. Thanks for sharing and teaching a newbie halfway across the world!
Thank you for the note mate. Glad it worked out for you.
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  #2074  
Old 12-08-2022, 01:51 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Marcus, I haven't checked in for a while lately. You've really made good progress. Nice to see that you hit the shows. It's a big step. I bet you were swamped with questions. (Don't get upset with the "dumb questions", most people , even car guys have absolutely no clue how much time and effort goes into building something like this.
Also good to see your wife takes an interest. (Your very patient and understanding wife.) Carry on mate.
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  #2075  
Old 12-10-2022, 06:13 AM
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Marcus, I haven't checked in for a while lately. You've really made good progress. Nice to see that you hit the shows. It's a big step. I bet you were swamped with questions. (Don't get upset with the "dumb questions", most people , even car guys have absolutely no clue how much time and effort goes into building something like this.
Also good to see your wife takes an interest. (Your very patient and understanding wife.) Carry on mate.
Thank you Jack. I was a bit unsure about taking it at first but getting more used to it now having just done the 7th show last night. The panel guys are really blown away by it as can appreciate the time and effort it takes. Most others just think it is factory and I have just done some rust repairs.
Wife has gone to all and I make sure there are other things to do there if it a longer show. The coffee and cars ones are alright as pretty short and she often has to take the camera from me as I haven't been able to walk away from the Truck do to all the questions.
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  #2076  
Old 12-10-2022, 06:15 AM
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I noticed that a couple of the ribs were higher than they should be. This one was the worst at about 5mm-5/16". So I was heating it with a torch to a blue colour and suddenly it collapsed down in front of where I was heating. I think I was trying to heat too long a section at once. I used a bar dolly that matched the rib under it to knock it back up to level again before continuing on.


Laid my paint colour sample on it to give me some inspiration to keep at it. Can see how much of that rib I heated too. I was bringing the overall crown down more to make it look more factory.


I noticed the side started bending inwards and upwards as well. Fortunately lowering the crown spread it back to where it was straight again, but caused the top of the skin to collapse! I tried the technique of hitting it down while it was hot, but it caused a lot of damage for me. I obviously need to be better at it. Went back to heating and letting it cool naturally which leaves the panel really tight in the area. I then hit it down off dolly or onto a lead filled rubber block to lower the high spot.


Once the crown was checked with the profile gauge left to right, front to rear, I could then make a centre crossmember. I folded up this hat channel and can see how much it needs to bend.


It starts out perfectly straight but needs a gradual curve to it to match the crown on the panel.


Using a propane torch I slowly just heated the top of it and let it cool naturally. Showing some good progress already.


Can see the ends are about halfway closer now.


The curve needs to be more than the panel below it like it is already starting to show. One because there is more crown in the middle, but also it is the top surface of the crossmember that has to match.


Time to take an accurate profile of where the crossmember will sit.


Can see it still has a little more to go. I tried the partial cut and weld back up method, but it was too harsh for such a gradual curve. So had to cut it and put it back to what it was.


The torch method was not getting it any further so actually placed a weld bead on the top edge where I needed to add the extra curve. The weld causes it to shrink and add more curve. Could place it in slightly different places left to right to get the curve perfectly even as well this way and was only needed near the ends where it was much steeper.


Prepping the area ready for the crossmember to go in. I left the brace in place to make sure the flanges didn't twist during welding or pull together.


Here is a trick I picked up from Rod Covell from his old Street Rodder column where someone had said they had a problem with the adhesive between the roof panel and crossmember showing up in the reflections of their polished paintwork depending on the temperature of the day. Manufacturer's use this method on boots and bonnets etc, but the blobs of adhesive are quite thick and the frame is a good 5mm-5/16" away from the skin to help with the movement. So he said that he uses the loop/soft side of Velcro as a cushion to protect the paint from rubbing and to stop it rattling. I have used it with success on my roof crossmember as well.


Crossmember dropped into place ready for welding.


Follows the crown nicely.
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  #2077  
Old 12-10-2022, 07:26 AM
dwmh dwmh is offline
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Your persistence paid off Marcus, looking good.
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  #2078  
Old 12-10-2022, 10:57 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Marcus
nicely done !
thanks for all the tips on correcting the curve of the hat channel.
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  #2079  
Old 12-13-2022, 04:40 PM
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I never wanted the sharp corners on the cover which is why they were never welded. The plan was always to radius the tailgate end of the cover to be proportional to the radius at the end of the bedsides. The jam lid was just the right size and you can see how I have cut away the underside of the cover to match it and slot the vertical part of the sides.


I pulled the vertical parts around to follow the base.


From the top I could then make adjustments to the radius of the vertical part before bring the top down to meet it.


I slowly cutting a triangle out of each side of the very top part and tapped it down to give it a radius rather than a ridge.


Once it rolled over the curve I could weld it shut.


Ground it down to almost flush.


Then finished off with a flap disc.


At the cab end of the cover I just matched the radius to that of the ribs, as the bedsides are squared off at that end.


Every time I had been waiting for heat shrinks to cool, I was lifting the little low spots and planishing down the high ones. The final sand was just to remove the heat discolouration and most of the shrinking disc marks. I then followed with a 7" strip disc. I'm pleased with the way it has turned out and is exactly how I imagined it.
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  #2080  
Old 12-13-2022, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwmh View Post
Your persistence paid off Marcus, looking good.
If you have enough of it, you get there in the end.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
Hi Marcus
nicely done !
thanks for all the tips on correcting the curve of the hat channel.
Thank you Steve.
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