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  #11  
Old 07-21-2022, 11:24 AM
rustreapers rustreapers is offline
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Default Water Blasting

I am finding that water blasting flows the grit in to cavities and once dried forms a hard (ish) rock. Does not blow away like regular blasting.
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  #12  
Old 07-21-2022, 02:41 PM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Maybe there will be some abrasive in the water, I don't know. But a pressure of 2500Ba would remove the varnish even without an abrasive.
Care must be taken in cavities. But water is a safer way than sand.

In the past years, I have seen repairing modern cars that were drowned after high water. It was full of mud up to the roof.
I couldn't believe what I was seeing.
After bringing it to the workshop yard, they washed the engine compartment and cabin with pressurized water and blew it with air. Then they started...the engine.
I don't understand that it was able to start.
They later disassembled the whole car, flushed all the cavities with water. They changed the interior from another car, polished the paint... poor guy who bought that car.
Some sand in the cavities of a vintage car is fun against a drowned car.
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2022, 05:52 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Great to see a Kadett build. There is/was a Kadett coupe 2 dr a few miles from here in the USA at a local garage for many years- neat car., great shape. Opel GTs are not common but they’re around. That light green Kadett was special. No idea what happened to it.

I bet yours will be a lot of fun with a rotary engine.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2022, 09:09 AM
Sune Sune is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: Herning, Denmark
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Default First repairs

Wow thanks for the warm welcome of my project. The discussions are already flowing - that's what it's all about

Great point about sandblasting. That was also a point of concern and confusion for me before I had it done. You can read a lot on the "interwebs" - all from "never do it, you'll destroy it" to "It's the best way". I had a good talk with a local sandblasting company with prior experience in blasting cars. That had me convinced that it would be okay. He stressed that he would not blast external/flat surfaces as that could not be done successfully. I did all of that with a rotary buffer on low speed with coarse sandpaper. But I'll get back to this point as soon as I visit the car again, because I actually did a bit of the blasting myself and did damage. I'll take some pictures to explain what went wrong. But one thing is sure - if you have a bodyshell sandblasted you need to make sure that whoever does it has good experience with it. It really takes experience to do it without doing damage.

Alright, back to the blasted bodyshell. Operations needed to start somewhere and I decided that my body work virginity would be lost at patching a hole in the inner fender well under the badly corroded battery tray.





As an aside: You might see, I've cut out the entire tray and corroded metal underneath. That's a lesson for me - Don't cut out bad metal before you have shaped the replacement I've made this mistake more than once now.





I bought a body hammer, sand bag, mallet and two dollies thinking that was all the tools I would buy for this project - Oh my, I was wrong

Patch tagged in



Tig welded and beads ground down. As stated previously, I been doing fabrication before and I'm comfortable with a tig welder. I find that I much prefer that over the MIG





On to the next hole
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2022, 09:18 AM
Sune Sune is offline
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Default Rear window corner

Next was the rear window corner. Some pitting and a hole in the right lower corner.

Patch:



Here I trying out the MIG. It sure is easier to tag a patch in, but it feels a bit like doing surgery with a baseball bat. All sheet on this car is almost exclusively 22 gauge and so easy to blow a hole with the welder.



Welded and ground down smooth:



Profile for window rubber replaced



Next tool already purchased at this point: Spot welder





That's buttoned up ..
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2022, 01:51 PM
Sune Sune is offline
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Default Parcel shelf repair

Parcel shelf has had holes cut for speakers. I decided to repair that despite it won't be visible. If nothing else then it's good for practicing.

Before car was blasted



Creating repair sections











And put in



I can't find the pictures of the welds completed. But I'm challenged a bit with the the heat warpage. Debating with my self on how much effort I should put in making it "perfect". Left as is for now.
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2022, 02:19 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Sune
You are making good progress and doing a great job.
Thanks for posting and showing the details.
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  #18  
Old 07-26-2022, 05:43 AM
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Doing great work there mate.
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2022, 06:31 AM
Sune Sune is offline
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Marcus and Steve, thanks a lot

Marcus, your build thread was the main motivator for me to join this forum (and Jack's). I've read it from start to finish more than once. There is so many incredible talented people on here that is found it to humbling to participate. People that done metal shaping for a living for many many years. I see that both Peter Tommasini and David Gardiner are users here. Both guys have taught me a lot through their DVD's. So, without taking anything away from you, it's incredible too see what you have done in your home shop as a "non professional".

Being on the subject of parcel shelf, I've previously done some work on that.

The Kadetts being budget cars in their time, had some corners cut, to keep cost down. One of those corners are trim panels. Those are made from pressed cardboard. I think anyone can imagine what moisture and condensation does to cardboard over time. Trim panels in good shape is almost impossible to come by.

Most of them are flat and easy to reproduce. Those I did in CAD and had the laser cut in 1 mm aluminium.





The hardest one to solve was the parcel shelf cover trim. Mine didn't have one when I bought it, just a piece of carpet. I found an original one in Germany and paind 100€ for it only to find that it was also quite deteriorated.

It was crooked, cracked and edges had gone soft.





Edges and cracks were "improved" by soaking them in superglue. It was then glued down flat to a chip board. Surface corrected with body filler.



I then build a support structure to cater for the compound curves around the edge that meets the rear windshield.





Gave it all some coats in filler primer, sanded and finally a coat of rattle can paint. Now a had a plug to pull a mold from. As I have never played with fiber glass before, I took the safe route and bought a mold kit from Easy Composites. Awesome people to deal with as a beginner. No pictures of process, but this is the final mold.



I learned the hard way that you shouldn't use rattle can paint (1K) as final layer on plug. Had to pull the plug of in small pieces of 1x1 cm. Ugh!! Also for my future self - make flanges larger and smoother.

Anyway it works out for a regular wet layup. Here's the final product. I made two while I was at it. One you see in just bare fiber glass and one covered in a faux leather with a texture similar to the original pressed cardboard.



I posted one for sale and it turned out that I wasn't the only one with that "problem" so ended up selling both. I have a mold so I'll just make a new one once it's time.

Rest of panels were covered as well.

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  #20  
Old 07-29-2022, 06:53 AM
Sune Sune is offline
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Default Bumper horns

I got a little carried away with all the composites stuff, so I thought I would give recreating bumper horns a go.

As with the parcel shelf trim, mine didn't have them. They go bad as the imbedded fasteners rust. As the rust expands, it destroys the rubber that is molded over them, and they fall off. Mine probably suffered the same fate and was just removed all together. You can see what I'm talking about on this picture (not mine, same color though). Two on front bumper and two on rear bumper.



I found a NOS horn - also in Germany. From that I made a two-piece silicone mold.



On the picture you can just about see the fasteners through the silicone. I used stainless bolts and tied them together with a strip of stainless. Also to give the PU something to adhere to.

New ones were cast in PU shore 90 which feels similar to the original one.

This was another case of learning by doing. The 90 shore PU sets so fast that I had to pour them in 2 batches. After some frustrations messing with degassing, pot life, holding the mold together etc. I had successfully made 4 new horns.



NOS on the left, PU on the right:





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