#21
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Thanks Kerry. I have ordered a hand held shot bag and a Fournier high domed hammer.
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Phil Last edited by foamcar; 07-14-2022 at 06:29 PM. |
#22
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Quote:
Okay - I'll get photos for a setup for you - but go get that torch .... (I'm no expert - but I do offer consults on old ratty resto stuff ....) P1130952 copy.jpg
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#23
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I follow some paintless dent repair guys in the mideast that have a different style using handheld slappers, Dollys and hammers. One thing I have been watching with interest is how they shrink back stretched areas with no backside access. In a nutshell they hot glue a ring onto the damaged area around the stretched area and cold shrink the highs using a tap down tool and a hammer. This traps and holds the base metal while you shrink. You can see it on Facebook or instagram under Harons PDR tools. It’s similar to how the donut dolly works.
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#24
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Steve, there is a layer of stuck on. The wall is strong. Degraded metal. Experiments are needed. It's not just bent. Maybe use warm up and targeted shots. In this case without backing. Maybe a rounded chisel and a hammer to gradually bend in the right direction would help. I used a similar method for 1.5mm stainless steel. Chisel and hand hammer. You don't have to be in the right place with just a hammer. You're not aimed and you don't have that precise punch power.
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Jaroslav |
#25
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Jaroslav, I agree this could be a tricky one. It’s interesting following for sure!
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#26
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There is no layer of stuckon there. Thats just rattle can gray primer. I easily cleaned off some of it around the damaged area.
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Phil |
#27
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I made a little mockup for you, using steel sheet about = to 356 Porsche.
(I've done this a couple times, so doing it here in accurate demo = no prob. I think you have all needed. ...so no need to $$$$ out. Got the O/A torch? okie dokie : P1060440 copy.jpg Here's mockup about accurate to 356 rear qrtr where you are at. P1060444 copy.jpg I smacked a 6in wide soft-edge chisel 3X into the panel, from rear, to simulate your headache. P1060447 copy.jpg Torch w/#2 tip and 1/4in. inner cone length, moves briskly across. Heat path shows....move fast NOW. P1060450 copy.jpg 8 taps across, and 8 taps back - then a couple to even the surface. P1060451 copy.jpg Net result. Elapsed Time = 90 seconds. (Note1: I backed up with big face of track dolly, and swatted only lightly - shrink NOT stretch. Metal sets down nicely, firmly, as you can FEEL it do so. Note2: I also back up with air dolly, using same heat, same hammer. You have same air as I do. Right? ) Should be Zero Problem .... 120 seconds? (ps, I know about air chisels, air hammers, rivet guns for moving metal: --- but Not Necessary for this job, at all.) P1150923 copy.jpg (current supply on hand, all working WELL.)
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 07-15-2022 at 01:25 PM. |
#28
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Wow Kent! Thanks so much for taking the time to demo this. Im awaiting hand held bag and larger dome hammer. I have a small one bout 3 qtr wide. This is last dent on 356. Just turned 79. Looking at torch options.
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Phil |
#29
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20220718_181714.jpg
20220718_171624.jpg Hammer and shot bag arrived today. While waiting I made 3 templates. 1 down center of good trough and 2 across good trough. Was hard to hold shot bag under ridge but think had it located and pressed up pretty good. 5 smart whacks with new hammer did not do much. Above is template resting on ridge. Torch time.
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Phil |
#30
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The welding setup I can borrow has Smith Airline torch with 3 tips:
AW 23 AW 26 AW 27 May be pretty old.. Smith tip sizes today start at AW 200 and maybe 205 matches Victor #2 There is another larger torch with GX mixer #1 and GXU #62.
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Phil |
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