1950 Austin Devon

[Reno]

This is the shape of the cushion for the rear seat.



It turned out to be opposing 10" radius bends so I tried a different method to make a pair of pullmax dies. These came with the machine, but were an odd shape, so I set them up mirrored in the CNC mill and cut the radius internal and external with an arc program by moving the X center but retaining the Y center.



Then I used them to form the rest of the seat bottom and welded it to the left hand piece.



I mocked up the seat foams to trim and reposition some of the internal wire frame.



I replaced the original floor and added some beads to stiffen it and then rather than lose that space I added a hinged access to the underseat storage area.





The cushion is held with retainer clips at the two rectangular slots and lifts up easily to get to the space below it. I had thought the curvature was enough to stiffen it, but had to spot weld additional ribs next to the opening.

[crystallographic]

Originally Posted by Reno

This is the shape of the cushion for the rear seat.

Attachment 61507

It turned out to be opposing 10" radius bends so I tried a different method to make a pair of pullmax dies. These came with the machine, but were an odd shape, so I set them up mirrored in the CNC mill and cut the radius internal and external with an arc program by moving the X center but retaining the Y center.

Attachment 61509

Then I used them to form the rest of the seat bottom and welded it to the left hand piece.

Attachment 61508

I mocked up the seat foams to trim and reposition some of the internal wire frame.

Attachment 61510

I replaced the original floor and added some beads to stiffen it and then rather than lose that space I added a hinged access to the underseat storage area.

Attachment 61511

Attachment 61512

The cushion is held with retainer clips at the two rectangular slots and lifts up easily to get to the space below it. I had thought the curvature was enough to stiffen it, but had to spot weld additional ribs next to the opening.

Nice creative work, Eugene.
A pleasure to follow.
(Might have to plan a 49-70-395 road trip, and check the scorched earth along the way.)

[Reno]

Thanks Kent. Swing by if you make the road trip.

Just getting the hang of some of my tools, but I learn best from total immersion.

[Reno]

I rolled the Austin out to check the stance from a distance.

[Reno]

The original dash was almost flush with the windshield and since I lost all the footwell space I mocked up adding a 5" setback.



Then welded it in and filled the ash tray at the same time. To make more room for guages, I added a 2" strip through the dash and glovebox.



And then added endcaps to close it off and provide lower mounting points.

[123pugsy]

Originally Posted by Reno

I rolled the Austin out to check the stance from a distance.

Attachment 61828

Cool little car there.

Hate to say it, but that back fender wheel opening could really use some help.


.

[Reno]

Thanks Pugsy.
I am in complete agreement with your assessment of the rear fender. It looks like the designers of a small boxy post war sedan attempted to give it the appearance speed by streamlining the rear "wing" on the inside.

After the discussion on Chris' 41 Chevy fender profiles, I think it calls for an inner radius that matches the front fender. I will have to fatten all the fenders to cover the tires and want to avoid the typical old gasser cut of the rear fender to clear the slicks.

[drivejunk]

From here it looks like for bigger tires the body may need to shift forward. On the fender lips a guy could sort of split the different angles of the current rear halves and use the angle of the back window and trunk. Semi-streamlining for a less stodgy, more unified look. Just thinking out loud and thinking thats probably like 13" rubber in the pic.

Your project is a cool adventure, should be a lot of fun in a little package.

[Reno]

As it sits 225/60-15 front and 235/60-15 rear. That gives a 26.1" tall rear and lead me to the overdrive of the 700R4 since the Jag rear ratio was 3.54. I'll keep the 92 1/2" original wheelbase and that would still allow a 28" tire in the existing fenders/wheel well. The challenge will be a rear wheel opening that eliminates the teardrop but keeps the look I'm after.

Drivejunk, I enjoy your sketches and your input. Lots to think about.

[drivejunk]

Those are 15" 60s, OK. That helps me grasp the scale of the car. I must say I'm a 4 to 2 door conversion disliker ordinarily but once I traced your pic I saw what you see. Not too shabby, Eugene.

You've done good there, with the shapes. My instinct was to move the rear fender's front forward, lip and all. Nope, back fender overpowers front.

So in this, rear fender outline is unchanged but the front half is skinnier, more like the front fender. Height of rear fender lip raised to at or near height of front fender's, and top contour from there transferred directly.

Rear halves of lips transition to trunk / back window angle then have "matching" radii at bottom rear. Just sketchy free fun play here... I may have removed a little rake and the rear tire is larger, same size rim. Ish! Color is whichever pencil I grabbed first.



I'd be glad to make alterations. A good side pic with a challenge in it hits the spot sometimes so I draw if it might help. Theraputic for me, hope it helps you some day.

Matt