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Old 11-12-2014, 02:21 PM
Keyair Keyair is offline
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Default How should I make these panels in Aluminum?

Thought this would be the right place to post this question...
I have posted it on other forums, but still need help!

Want to try to replicate some vacuum formed bumper fairings for my Airstream Motorhome in Aluminum. There are 4... 2 front ones, and 2 longer rear ones. There are other panels that I will need to do, but lets start with these.
It will be polished, so its gotta be good!

Lets start with the front, and here are a couple of shots, left and right.
These panels are about 24"(500mm) long from bumper to wheel arch, and 13" tall. Ignore the chin spoiler, I will make that separately.




I planned to simplify the form a bit.
Both amber lights will be deleted, and the surfaces will smoothed to suit.
The fwd edge will go behind the hollow bumper, hiding the edge.

Here is a sketch of what I planned to make it look like.



I have a good skill set, and can work in wood, and plastic, but am still learning metal. I have MIG, and TIG welders, as well as some basic metal tools.

I was leaning toward making this panel in 2 parts, and TIG welding after.
Edges of each panel defined in red and blue.



I will use the OEM part as a guide and make a hammerform/buck like this..


Please give me advise of if I am going about this correctly, and what other tools I would need to get a good result?
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:24 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Not detracting on what you want to achieve! Wouldn't it be easier to a Make a full Alloy Bar...... IMHO would look a lot nicer as well, not so patchy.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:45 PM
TripleF TripleF is offline
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First, I will start by saying I am new to metal working and most of my exp is in mild steel. Going off your drawing of the buck with holes. I see it as two stacked objects( rotated 90 degrees clockwise in the drawing).

I think your project lends itself to taking long strips of material (2" wide) and making L's 90 degree bend in the middle so each leg is approx. 1" . You may have to fiddle with the width to find out what works best for your project.

Then, fill the voids between the Ls with material. The order in which to weld the piece together is project dependent.

Top object (with curve)
First edge - Shrink one "L" to make the top radius. once formed, cut piece to fills in the top void.

Second edge - stretch second "L" the middle radius that matches top edge. once formed, cut and bend a piece(over large diameter pipe) that matches first "L".

Bottom object (long box)

four "L's" required

2 for the long runs back and 2 shorter Ls for the face(3 holes part of the buck). To achieve the small radius on the face to the long runs going back, havle or notch the material on end, much like a long step. This will allow the shrinker to bend the material in the most agressive way.

Using this method will NOT allow you to get a sharp 90 like you drew on the buck design. A tight bend is possible, just not a sharp 90.


I will post(Monday) a picture in my thread (AE86) that shows an example of this process.

Not sure what equipment you have have access to.

required - shrinker / strecher (not sure there is alternative means)
brake (or long plate steel that you can clamp the metal to and then
hammer a 90 into)

Good luck
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Old 11-17-2014, 05:28 PM
TripleF TripleF is offline
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here's an example the bend I was talking about. The notch/step in the end allows a sharper bend.

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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 11-18-2014 at 09:17 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2014, 07:23 AM
KAD KAD is offline
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I would start with a paper pattern of the object, if you can just wrap the paper over the surface of the object then your dealing with mostly form.
When you have to cut and fold and tape sections to get them to lay on the surface then your dealing with shape.

Complicated shaped areas can be studied effectively with both paper and flexible shape patterns.

The pattern doesn't tell you you have to shrink or stretch to get the shape you want it only gives you the relationship of one section to another.

It is your choice as to how the relationship is recreated in the metal, either all shrink or all stretch or a combination of the two.

Use the paper to teach yourself how the objects surface is made, if it's hard to get the paper to fit an area then it's likely going to be hard to get the metal to fit also. Spend the time before you start bashing metal to learn about the whole of the object, decide what skill sets you have that would allow you to make a section.

When your confused about how to make a section try dividing that area up into smaller parts that can be welded together.
How you make a part will be more about "your skills" and tools and is very much like creating a piece of art work in that it is a reflection of where you are in your learning process.

Some key things to keep in mind.
Always try form first to solve a problem as it can be undone without damage to the metal.

Number two is that there is always less shape than you think there is, don't just go willly nilly bashing shape into it with the thought that you can change it later if you make a mistake. Undoing shape can be a challenge and should be avoided.(although you will learn a bunch in the process of changing incorrect shapes so it's not all bad)

Every object is different but all objects are made up of shapes that are found in many things, divide your challenge into the least number of objects that you feel you can accomplish in the shortest time.

If your goal is to learn metal shaping then always push yourself to make larger sections that challenge you to learn new basic shapes and combinations.

Good luck and remember

If it looks wrong it is wrong....and visa versa.
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Last edited by KAD; 11-18-2014 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:05 PM
Keyair Keyair is offline
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Firstly, Thanks for the input so far everyone!
In a former life, I was and industrial sculptor/clay modeler, and worked for all the big players for 30+ years. I have good design and form skills. I was also a 5 year apprenticed press tool patternmaker way back... and have made many egg crates, and soft tools for the metal fabricators.
Its the first hand metalworking knowledge I lack.

Oldnek:
Not sure what you mean by full alloy bar?
If you mean making the whole bumper and fairing in one piece, I agree, but its sooooo much more work!

TripleF:
I think I see what you are saying...
Yes, I turned the buck on its side not just for visualization but also because it would allow me to work it better. Yes, it is 2 stacked shapes in simplicity. The forward face of the part(3 hole zone) will be hidden behind the bumper, and so it not important in real terms... I planned to just tack a flat sheet on there to stiffen the part.
I grasp what you are saying about using a shrinker on the curves... but a couple of points... The upper side of the part has to be an open sheet... it is mounted to the body by overlapping, so only a sheet thickness would work. I am not sure how shrinking a piece that is a radius would react.
Also, the metal left must be smooth and unwrinkled... its visible!

KAD:
The paper pattern is a great idea. As stated above, I have good form and shape sense.
My gut tells me that this panel should be 2 pieces, as shown in my pics.
I think the sheet will lay down well as drawn, if not, I can adjust the shape a little..
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