'67 Jag Trans Am/ GT-1

[Mike Motage]

These pieces started as 1.5" wide strips, bent 90° to give 1" and .5"" legs. The .5" leg is a good leg to get ahold of for shrinking and stretching without being too much hindrance. I made a wood form of the shape of the desired opening. I found using a stretching hammer worked best for getting precise location of the varying radius on the outside flange.

[Mike Motage]

I hit at an angles first, then used a reverse curve hammer to blend back/smooth. I just kept using both hammers until I was satisfied with the work. This pic shows where one of the weld joints is, the other joint is at the tighter angle. I forgot to get a picture. But that tight angle is stepped, in other words one of each leg/ flange is longer and there's a .75" cut in the crotch of the angle.

[Mike Motage]

This pic shows a little adjustment using the reverse hammer. These outside pieces get welded into the body. The body has a slight reverse curve in that area. Shrinking needed to occur on the ends on order to get flange to follow shape of the body. It's easiest to shrink those as those perimeter shape is being established. I used the shrinker/stretcher for all of the shrinking needed.

[Mike Motage]

Once welded, I trimmed the each leg to get the width desired. It is imperative that these fit the exact shape and verify against the backside of the fender. Because when you cut a large opening in a shaped panel, it is sure to move/relax and otherwise show where the stress is. If the part is the shape I want it will pull the fender back into arrangement.

[Mike Motage]

The inner trim ring for the screen is made the same way. 1.5" wide bent to provide 1" &.5" legs. The difference is this piece has internal flange so all the work is shrinking. I used the shrinker stretcher exclusively for the shrinking. It is made in 2 pieces and welded in the same areas used a step cut on the tight angle. These parts were made in about a couple of hours, so quickly that no pictures were taken.


The screen s were quick also. Just set the trim on the screen trace, and cut. Be sure the mesh is at the angle you want! I will use a bonding epoxy to secure.

[cliffrod]

Originally Posted by Mike Motage

It is imperative that these fit the exact shape and verify against the backside of the fender. Because when you cut a large opening in a shaped panel, it is sure to move/relax and otherwise show where the stress is. If the part is the shape I want it will pull the fender back into arrangement.

Mike- trying to make sure I understand....

When a complex panel (your front fender) has a captured opening (hole for vent) cut within it, it may move or change shape as captured stress is relieved. I understand that part.

When a well-fitting and properly shaped part is welded back into that opening, the stress and shrinkage created by the welding will help return the larger panel back into the previous arrangement with nominal distortion.

This means better results may be achieved by not trying to "fix" that larger panel between the cutting of the opening and the welding of the new portion back into it or to plan to fix the patch to proper shape after it is welded into place. make sure the new portion matches in shape before any cutting or any welding.

Am I on the right track?

[Mike Motage]

Yes, exactly!

I'm so particular about some things. Here's an example, I made a pattern of the top outside of the fender, so that I could compare the exact face.
The backside of this aluminum template sits flush on the fender. Therefore if my flange sits perfectly on the backside it's the exact shape when inserted into the opening. A little overkill yeah ! I wanted to do some wheeling with the upgraded anvil cradle.

[cliffrod]

Originally Posted by Mike Motage

Yes, exactly!

Very cool. Thanks, Mike. I've got some holes to cut and fill. This will help.

[Mike Motage]

Back to work after taking too much time off dealing with a bad knee. My wing is done, mounts will happen later.

[Mike Motage]

My number 1 goal this summer is to get the aluminum bonnet all welded together into 1 piece and fully operational. This picture shows the grill opening, which I just finished welding 3 panels.