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  #141  
Old 11-11-2014, 09:38 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Hi Marcus - good tip on the mig wire straightening. Thanks! I also use 0.9 mig wire for the smaller and thinner stuff. Sometimes 1.6 is just too much and sucks the heat out of the puddle. I was putting mine in the vice and yanking the other end, but it always wants to retain some curl. Bit of a learning curve with all of the knobs on the tig, but I'll bet you will be using it all the time. I'm starting to play with the pulse on mine a bit more. Quite useful in some situations.
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  #142  
Old 11-12-2014, 01:41 PM
VetteMemphis VetteMemphis is offline
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I love your home-made gear, Marcus.

So lemme guess: you bought that darlin' little wheeling "machine" for workin' beads in tinfoil?

Sorry - I just COULD NOT resist that one.

Seriously, though, some folks have no compunction over putting doodoo on the market, do they?
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Last edited by VetteMemphis; 11-12-2014 at 01:43 PM. Reason: txt
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  #143  
Old 11-12-2014, 07:01 PM
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Something I would like to alter is the difference in the firewall angle between the Willys and the donor Grand. The Willys is vertical but the Grand is sloping 10* forwards. I only want to change the end and leave the area where the brake booster etc mounts, unchanged as much as possible.


So to get it so it would match to the Willys cowl, I made it vertical by moving the lower kick panel bend further forward extending the flatter part of the floor by doing so. Having the floor flatter longer also made it better match the Willys in that area too. If you look at the previous photo you can see the kick panel bend was at the edge of the trestle and now is just past the oval hole.


To move the kick board bend forward I used a curved flipper both free hand and also by hitting down on it with a soft faced mallet. I angled the bend leaving the end point at the tunnel in the same place.


Between the ribs I used a dolly that matched the same curve and hit on it the same way.


That curved hammer that I changed from a round flat face to a curved square face came in very handy to dress out any marks. Used it together with a dolly.


After less than a couple of hours practise on the tig a couple of weeks ago as shown earlier, thought I would already have a go on the Willys panels. I hadn't done any in the meantime as thought I would wait until a pedal controller arrived. So this is my first weld ever with the tig with the pedal while also doing just fusion welding too. The weld above was done without stopping.


This is showing the backside of the second weld after switching to a bigger electrode as the first one didn't give me complete penetration all the way along. 1mm/0.040, electrode was not big enough for the thicker metal used in the cowl and the old Willys tailgate pressing being welded together here.


I am just a passing on what worked for me after lots of reading and watching, so by no means an expert but sharing in case it helps someone. This also applies mainly to a inverter tig which are more sensitive to electrode size. So this is the setup that worked the best for the cowl and old tailgate pressing which is 1.2mm/18Ga, and 1.6mm/16Ga. A 1.6 mm/0.065 inch, 2% lanthanated tungsten electrode was used. Best if you use one as close as possible to the thickness of the metal being welded for the easiest time and the best heat control. I am using lanthanated as can be used for steel and aluminium etc and you don't have the problems of breathing in the radioactive dust with sharpening it like thoriated ones. Using a no.4 cup with the gas flow around 6 L/min-20cfm.


All welded in using fusion welding mainly. A couple of the corners had a slight gap so used mig wire as a filler rod when welding those. Torch angle was at 105*, or 15* off vertical, leaning away from direction of travel. The filler wire was added at a 15* angle off horizontal just in front of the puddle. It is recommended that the filler rod be 90* to the torch angle, which this adds up to.


The back side shows good fusion and the HAZ is pretty even and narrow. Not sure on the welding current as used a foot pedal. Before getting it I used the principle of 30-35 amps per 1mm/0.40 of metal thickness that my tig welders manual recommended.


Only drawback with using no filler wire and doing fusion only, is that you can still see where the weld was after planishing and sanding smooth. For panels this is generally regarded as being quite acceptable and structurally sound.


I did however go back over it with filler wire to see how it would come out. Used the E-wheel to correct the shape a bit more too.

Hope to have time to add other panel welding tomorrow.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 02:13 AM.
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  #144  
Old 11-13-2014, 12:38 AM
shallis2 shallis2 is offline
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Loving your work!
As you know we don't have much in the way of reasonably priced TIG's available here. I am looking forward to how the Uni-mig TIG goes. so far looks good.

Keep up the good work.

Wayne
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  #145  
Old 11-13-2014, 01:18 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shallis2 View Post
Loving your work!
As you know we don't have much in the way of reasonably priced TIG's available here. I am looking forward to how the Uni-mig TIG goes. so far looks good.

Keep up the good work.

Wayne
What! There are plenty of reasonably priced TIGs here...............................
Unfortunately they all come from CHINA
I not bagging them as I have a Mitech 200, Looks very similar to the UniMig TIG 200. Great machine, was $840 delivered in 2002 and hasn't missed a beat, except when the circuit board had corrosion on it, lemon juice fixed though.
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  #146  
Old 11-13-2014, 06:15 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shallis2 View Post
Loving your work!
As you know we don't have much in the way of reasonably priced TIG's available here. I am looking forward to how the Uni-mig TIG goes. so far looks good.

Keep up the good work.

Wayne
Went for the Uni-tig as has very good back up service and had a longer warranty than the others that look to be the same. I spoke to a service centre also and they said they might look the same as other models, but he found they ran different circuit boards etc to the other copies and found them of much better construction.
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  #147  
Old 11-13-2014, 06:26 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Got inspired by the last update. Feel more confident that this thing can actually come together!

Before joining the panel sections together I spent some time filing the joints until there were no gaps as much as possible. This allows much better and easier fusion welding. I used a faced piece of angle iron from my folder clamped to the bench to check the edge for straightness, as well as keeping it perfectly square.


Decided to give the thinner 0.9mm/20Ga panels of the rear wall a try next. Swapped the lanthanated tungsten over to a 1mm/0.040. Find it easier to weld the thinner panels with this size as it is close to the panel thickness.


Just did fusion welding again but found it gave a better result than with the thicker metal. Only a few spots that needed a bit of filler rod added. Planished the weld and HAZ area only to get it nice and flat again. It is so much softer than mig welds that I had to use a shrinking disc in a few places as went too far!


Came across a problem on both sides that the 58 ends were not as deeply pressed as the original 48 centre part of the wall. So what I did was tack together the wider raised sections first perfectly flush and then stretched down the narrow sections to fit.


Came up really well and all lined up too.


Started welding up the other end to the centre part of the wall.


Was tacked flat but the heat shrinkage pulled it down. Also showing what the backside of the weld looks like as welded it from the other side.


Planishing the weld area only brought it back flat.


The ribs were a lot shallower on the newer 58 ends compared to the 48 as well. Used a dolly with a similar shape to them to stretch them to the same size.


I placed a beater bag underneath and then hammered down on the dolly with a soft faced hammer. Some was done with the dolly underneath and using a small squared faced hammer from the top.


So the first big section of 48 and 58 panels are together.


Trial fitted quite well to the donor floor as well.

Not sure if you guys want to see the non exciting fiddly bits that can be quite time consuming nonetheless?


In the foreground is the outside part of the cowl. The centre part of the cowl does not blend in with it. Partly due to the fitting of the tailgate piece in the middle of the cowl section after removing the centre vent, but also due to the fact the cowl changes width and curvature over its length. Don't forget that the centre part is 8" longer than what was in there before.


Using the wheeling machine and flipper over a beater bag, got it to better match each other.


One problem that did occur though is that it ended up with a bad twist in the panel and it sunk from being over stretched. I think this was due to the change in thickness of the metal from the thinner cowl into the thicker tailgate piece. I tried stretching the top edge and shrinking the low spot, even cutting and relieving the tension from the very tight oil canning it had, but lack of experience stopped me from raising it.


Could have just filled it with plastic filler, but decided just to cut it right off and start again.


Cut a section off the old 48 cowl from further along to replace the piece. It had too much curve but was able to flatten that out to match. Also had to shape it again to fit the end piece of the outer cowl again, but came up much better this time as didn't have the change in material thickness in the middle of it.


This is the other side showing the same problem with the dip I had. Should curve upwards about the same as it is dipping downwards. Needs about the same arc as the rib in the foreground. If I lent on it with all my weight, it would pop up the right way, but as soon as the pressure was released, straight back down again. Excess material was trapped.


So cut this side off too and replaced it with another section of cowl. Can see now it curves in the right direction.


The top edge was not matching up to the bottom of the windscreen opening. The low section in the middle needs to come up and forward to match with that. Part of this is due to the 2" section that I have cut out below the windscreen.


Just used a bossing mallet and the rounded flipper over a beater bag to bring it forward. I did not want to change the angle in the windscreen piece as it must stay the same to match the upper roof section so the glass is sitting flat.
Something else I did was lower the Willys pressing more and allow the material to curve around it while keeping the pressing flat. Sits now at the same height as the rib in front and it also released the twist the panel had at the same time.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.

Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 02:23 AM.
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  #148  
Old 11-13-2014, 07:25 PM
Dave Deyton Dave Deyton is offline
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Very nice work.
Your jig saw puzzle Willys is really coming along.
Nice welds and plannishing.
Good job of keeping things straight.

Lot's of inspiration in this thread.

This will be one great Willys truck.
Dave
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  #149  
Old 11-14-2014, 01:15 AM
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Frank.de.Kleuver Frank.de.Kleuver is offline
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Thanks for documenting your journey so well. It's one big tutorial for me.

Greetings,

Frank
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  #150  
Old 11-14-2014, 03:08 AM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Excellent work Marcus. The Willys will be better than new when your finished with her.
And then your gonna have to off-load the Jeep.....

Cheers John
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