#61
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That's looking beautiful Richard. Almost a shame to take it wheel to wheel racing when it's finished.
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Bob Don't believe everything you think. |
#62
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Cheers Bob - having fun learning new things. Plan is to find a 'gentlemanly' class to run in when it's done and sorted and possibly do a few of the classic sealed hillclimbs here.
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#63
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Spire nut dimples and blisters
Got my little spire nut tool finished today which creates a recess for the 8g speed clips (spire nuts I gather is the proper term) so that they lie flat and allow the top panel to fit up onto the flange rather than sitting up on the clip.
The 1.2mm ali deflector panel needed a small blister to clear the end of the sill and this was complicated by the need for a return flange immediately below. Cut the panel long and made up another 'hammerform' from trusty 15mm triboard. Basically a keyhole slot in two pieces of board - nothing fancy. Needed to make a up a nylon domed button for the air chisel to create the blister, but started off with the flat nylon button to 'define' the edges of the blister and lock in the shape. Once the shape was defined, I could then gradually work the ali with the domed button. It's not a great method of doing this - 'flow-forming' into thin air and its easy to leave marks, but by turning down the air pressure (10psi makes a huge difference) and keeping the button moving, you can get a pretty fair finish. Did use a large plastic blocking hammer that I made as a bench stake, and planished up the blister over the dome with a thin spoon as a slapper. Gave it a bit of a file and a sand and fairly pleased with the result. Correct method is to have a fully contoured lower former to rattle the metal down into and this, coupled with some softer plastic dies would have meant that there would have been no further finishing required. Once the blister was finished, I could then trim the length of the panel and form the return. If I'd trimmed to length first, there would have been a high likelihood that the doming operation would have pulled material from the intended flange. Pretty much set now to complete the radiator mounts and weld on the tanks, connections, side plates and fittings.
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#64
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(Quote) Cheers Bob - having fun learning new things. Plan is to find a 'gentlemanly' class to run in when it's done and sorted and possibly do a few of the classic sealed hillclimbs here.
I don't know if it's done there but Autocross would be a blast in that car. I enjoyed talking with Alan Wills at his car collection museum in Omaru. There he had an eclectic display of old race cars and one wall of posters and memorabilia from the Pikes Peak Hill Climb which is only a couple of hours drive from my home here in Colorado. That was fun to see. I think the racer's name was Rod Millen from NZ who might still have the fast time on that hill. I wasn't able to visit with Rod Tempero, he was away. Maybe next time. Those gentlemanly classes only tend to be so until someone passes you.
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Bob Don't believe everything you think. |
#65
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Nice work Richard!
I like the spire-nut recess tool Cheers Charlie |
#66
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Thanks Charlie!
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#67
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Quote:
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#68
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I'm in love with your work. Every detail is superb. Because racecar!
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High Octane Speed Shop Dutch Speed Shop / bespoke fabrication www.facebook.com/HighOctaneSpeedShop www.highoctane.nl |
#69
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Thanks Jeffer!
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#70
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Header stub shaping
Been a bit distracted of late after my kids bought a Ducati 748 SPS as an investment. Neither had licences to test ride it, so it fell to me after a 30 year layoff having the leg over, so to speak. Daang it felt good! They then got learner bikes and we were going on rides together, but got grumpy with me putting miles on their keeper. Long story short I bought a 2004 749S in need of some love and have had the last couple of months bringing it up to our standards.
Also sitting in the corner of the shop waiting for some love and further keeping me from starting the bodywork on the Group 5, is our old 633 CSI which we have had for over 30 years. General maintenance ensued to get her back on the road, but I just had to remake the pretty awful stainless exhaust system which was on the car before we bought it - horrible ripple bends and very dodgy hangers. One thing lead to another and I decided foolishly to attempt to build a set of 304 headers for the new big bore and hopefully noisier system. Big job as the car is RHD and very little room around the steering box. A buddy is now 3D printing header mockup blocks, so he made me up a set to the CLR bends I have available in 1.5". Nothing revolutionary to do with sheetmetal shaping here, but I thought that I would share my experience in making the header stubs. Port is oval and the primaries are 1.5", but the overhead of the stub needs to be kept as small as possible. Previously I had another buddy laser scan a spare head to give me the port flange dimensions for waterjet cutting, so from this he was able to give me an accurate port circumference dimension. The hole in the flange was 41.5mm diameter (130mm circumference/3.142) and when you subtract the 1.5mm wall thickness, the required ID ended up being 38.1mm or 1.5". So the OD of the flange part of the stub needed to be swaged up from 38.1 to 41.5mm to give the required circumference. I figured that rather than trying to stretch the material into the required larger diameter and the oval shape all in one go, that the smart idea might be to swage up into a cone shape first to create the extra material (see I have been watching Con the Fruiterer's vids - Peter Tommasini ) and then take this extra material and move into the oval shape. Well bugger me, it worked. Turned up the cone swage in the lathe and annealed the end of the 25mm 304 stub before squashing it over the cone in the press. Trick from another buddy was to make a grooved pushing plate to retain the outside round shape of the stub. Also made an external restricting ring to ensured that the flared cone had a 10mm parallel end for the flange. Made up the oval die by cutting a port shape 1.5mm smaller all round, from 10mm plate and then building up with the mig before sanding and filing to the tapering oval shape. More copper coat on the bits before forming ensured that there was no galling. Really pleased with the finished stub test piece and it requires very little fettling to be welded into the flange. Cone swage, grooved pusher plate and external retaining ring
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
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