1950 Austin Devon

[Gojeep]

You have done well on that B pillar as not an easy shape to get right, that is for sure.

[Reno]

Thanks Marcus.
I rolled it over to work on the upper half and patched where I cut out the B post.



The rotisserie sure saves these old bones. I cannot imagine trying to do this bending over, or lying on my back.

[Reno]

I filled the driver quarter panel and cut a window pattern to determine how much I need to add to give me a flat quarter window opening.





This is a view of the upper, the lower lip is fairly straight, so I will start there, and then see if I can modify one of the original front widow sills to make a smooth arc on the upper.

[Jaroslav]

Eugene. It looks good. It's just a small piece ..... but the time before it works.

[edwin1]

Nice work, following from Belgium.

[crystallographic]

Very nice work, Eugene.

Sectioning door skins can be some patient effort.
... And problem solving if prior "metalwork" has been thrown in .....
Your welds show a proven method. Good to see.

Will you file or use a 9in sidewinder with a 50grit?

[Reno]

Thanks guys. I've picked up a lot of information and technique from all your postings.

Kent, I have used a Henrob for years, but now I a Meco man. Not just the weight, but the flame itself seems to give me better control of the puddle. Then adding the Piezo electric striker to the gas saver prompts me to hang the torch up and spend enough time working the joint to control the warping.

I have started to grind the welds with a four inch, then hammer and dolly and finally touch with a vixen to knock off the high spots. I picked up a GL2 and it speeds up the process, and allows me to either hand when I have awkward access. I haven't started to sand yet, but experimented with a flap disc and see the problem with it following the depressions.

[crystallographic]

Originally Posted by Reno

Thanks guys.



.....prompts me to hang the torch up and spend enough time working the joint to control the warping.

..... experimented with a flap disc and see the problem with it following the depressions.

Hi Eugene,
Speed onto the hot metal helps after welding.

...speed almost always helps when slogging too slowly .... but your technique looks good.


Maybe these will help you gain some speed and accuracy :

This fella is holding an "Effie" front fender, in the air hammer, while welding - and while planishing.

Torch stays on until the seam is fully welded, in the Hammer.
("Hot planishing" is the old term used in the shops, 50+ years ago.... )


Then, re-setting the Hammer for "nit picking" low spots, or for shrinking high spots down - hot.

When level, the part is removed from the machine and then "metal finished".

A kiss-0ver with the sharp Vixen (a flick of the fingernail should cause a flurry of wispy shavings in the air) shows last bits needing attention.


Then a FIRM backing pad on a 6in circular sander w/180 =

Left side shows needing more planishing.
Note: pattern is specific for 2nd pass. First passes are 90 deg to this.


Yeehaw - you are on track if you can hold your door in your air whacker with one hand and weld with t'other ... air whacker is yer 3rd hand .

[racer-john]

Reno, I was remiss in not thanking you for the info on the "bug".THANKS.
The work you are doing is great, waiting for more pictures and words.

[Reno]

No problem Racer John.

Thanks Kent. I'm tightening my fit up and getting more fusion welds so less grinding.

I started out trying to weld and shape the "C" post to bring the window ledge into a single plane from the door to the rear of the opera window. After unfolding some of the door skin and fitting in pieces from the rear door skin I still did not have a straight ledge. So for the lower I bent a piece of skin to a dogleg and tightened the angles with the shopdog. That gave a straight ledge for the glass. I formed a small radius on the sill to match and welded it in at the ends. Then with the airsaw I cut the new sill and the skin at the same time with a bevel that gave a flush fit.
For the upper I made a mess trying to bend the radius in one piece so made a three piece sill and after shrinking and stretching the legs welded the arcs together to match the bottom of the opera window.