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  #61  
Old 07-05-2012, 04:48 AM
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The dash looks good. Simple clean design and I like the way the bulge lines up also.
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  #62  
Old 07-05-2012, 01:39 PM
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Ray,

This is looking great! I like your instrument pod for the dash. Could we see a photo of how it fits to the dash top? Is it sort of a miniature mirror of the helmet fairing?

Great work, I like the idea of building off a C3 platform, I've considered it myself, but wasn't sure how well it would work. This may be just the inspiration I need to give it a try. Keep up the good work!
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  #63  
Old 07-06-2012, 10:21 AM
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Hello all, Here is a pix pf the dash.
Just wanted to say that this site is a wealth of knowledge and has helped a bunch to a novice like me. It's humbling to see others pro work compared to a hack like me. But when i see some of what others try to do i feel pretty good. Learning as i go....................Ray

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  #64  
Old 07-06-2012, 02:50 PM
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Ray,
I just posted some pics of my Ferrari instrument binnacle here: http://allmetalshaping.com/album.php?albumid=333 What you've mocked up looks right along the lines of the shapes used in cars of the design you're making. So great job!

One tip from my experience. Get the actual steering wheel that will be used in the car, mock up where the gauges will be placed and make sure you can see the gauges through the steering wheel. I had to redo my first design because the top most instruments were blocked by the steering wheel. I had to drop the binnacle top by an inch and thus lower the gauges by the same amount. The gauge numbers and needles were then visible through the steering wheel. An inch doesn't sound like much but it made all the difference in what was visible.
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  #65  
Old 07-16-2012, 11:43 AM
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Default Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Maybe i could get some pointers on what i'm doing wrong over and over again.I do ok on parts that i can pound out and smooth but these things kill me.
I'm self taught and watched enough videos. But the theory of shaping somtimes is missing in me.
I wish there was a pro in the Portland OR area i could bug...
These are the 4 back panels. they are 24x27 .063 3003 so i can handle them myself in the wheel etc.. I would call them 4 doorskins that will be welded together. There is a about a 1" compound curve that runs horizontal accross the back.
I start wheeling the flat panel to get the obvious curve you see in the pics. Wheeling horizontal it comes fast, i run the wheel off the edge.Pic1, Once i get that i go back in the wheel to get the 1" shape that runs across the back. Wheeling virtical up it's back it seems to not move up and or falls down as though the panel has to much strength and is trapped . It also curls the panel more like my first cure so i lay it on the bench and slap it flatter again.pic2 I then start shrinking all 4 the sides trying to make a bowl and slap the center to get it up. It kinda works and i get closer but the edges never seem to want to follow the shape on the piece. pic 3, They sometimes want to fall the opposite way . So out comes the hammer..........Now i'm trying to stretch the edge to get it up, but i just had the edge in the shrinker to get the bowl shape going??
Because i put the complete first shape in all the way am i fighting the other shape or ??? This is supposed to be fun! Frustraded

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  #66  
Old 07-16-2012, 01:44 PM
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Don't run the edges through the wheel. You're trying, as you said, to make a square bowl. Wheel the center out to BUT NOT ON THE EDGES More in the center and less and less toward the edges. That will cause the center to stretch and curve like you want. When you roll off the edges, it stretches out and you loose your crown.

One trick to keep from doing that is to fold some masking tape over the edge. You will feel the tape when you hit it with your rollers and know to stop.

I don't recall what kind of shrinker you have but if it's just a Lancaster it's not going to help you much and you'd be better off making the panel pure stretch and yes, put down the hammer. This is a low crown panel and you should just try and do it on the wheel with a pretty flat contact anvil. (1/2 to 3/4 contact flat) If you're using true radius anvils I can't help you because I don't know how to use them. The tracking pattern is really, really important with TR anvils.
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  #67  
Old 07-16-2012, 01:55 PM
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Thanks, How far should i stay from the edges with the wheel ?
I have a 8" deep throat shrinker.
Should i save this panel or start over? Ray
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  #68  
Old 07-16-2012, 02:58 PM
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If you can shrink deep into the panel you can shrink to bring the edges down. remember the edge has to move more than the next row in which has to more more than the row behind that, etc.

If you are doing any shrinking, you'll want to keep away from the shrink areas or actually a little more. Remember you will have a stretch area, a shrink area and a neutral zone between them.

Keep in mind that what allows the metal to crown up when you are wheeling is the strength of the outer portions. They get tension on them because they are holding the crown in place, when you wheel across them, they stretch more easily because they are 'loaded with tension' and you loose your crown.
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  #69  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:48 PM
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Thanks............I need to understand more of the "THEORY" and the order behind this so your reply helps a bunch, I'm open to any and all replies that will help me along.
This site is very helpfull, all my "Car buddies" see what i'm doing and just walk way...............no help at all! Ray
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  #70  
Old 07-16-2012, 07:37 PM
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Grab a piece of scrap about 12 x 12 and try wheeling it with the flattest anvil you have and don't touch the edges at all.

This will get you in the groove real quick as you'll see what's going on.
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