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  #1581  
Old 04-25-2021, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by pistol View Post
It sure is looking really good. There is a lot of great work happening
Thanks for posting
Cheers
Awesome, thanks for your comment.

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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Marcus. You may be liking the proportions, but I'm loving them.


Awesome stuff as usual.


Having a hard time seeing the finished profile at top of bed front.
I didn't take a shot as just 2" across the top, 1.25" down and a 1/2" lip back towards the panel. An open 'P' profile.
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  #1582  
Old 04-25-2021, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Awesome, thanks for your comment.



I didn't take a shot as just 2" across the top, 1.25" down and a 1/2" lip back towards the panel. An open 'P' profile.

Thanks. That's what I thought.
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  #1583  
Old 05-02-2021, 04:34 AM
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I have never been a fan of the stock Willys guards as the top looks too short compared to the length of the sides. A bit tent like.


I have moved it back 50mm-2" off centre to change the ratio of the gap between the back of the tyre and the top just to get an idea of how much I need to lengthen the top by. This would mean an overall increase in length of 100mm-4".


As you can see by the front guard, it has even more gap between the rear of the tyre compared to the top.


I used a profile gauge to see how much crown to wheel into the new top of the guard. Quite surprising as they actually look fairly flat. The crown gives it more strength and stops it looking like it belongs on a trailer!


To match the roll at the front I passed it through the wheel with the soft upper to get the start of the roll.


The rest of the roll was completed by levering it over the pipe stake you can see in the background. If the sheet was wider to give more leverage, I could have done the whole fold over it.


First time offering it up to the rest of the guard. This is without any hammer work at all. I am replacing the whole top section rather than just adding a narrow strip for the extra length. The reason is that the further away I have the two welds, the easier it is the control the distortion. Also it removes all the old cracks and previous repairs which all needed to be cut out and replaced as lots of fatigue and inconsistent shape.


Fully tig welded both ends on. Can really see how much longer it is now compared to the stock one. Can see also how that one has a twist it. Both had a lot of big dents and very twisted out of shape.


I think the proportions are much more pleasing now. This is not the final position it will be fitted at but does show what it will look like once the rear suspension is at the final height.


This is the stock mounting position for the guard. The rear suspension is sitting 50mm-2" higher though due to the lack of weight the bed has compared to the Grand Cherokee donor. I measured the compressed length of the coil before stripping the donor down. With these 190 lb constant rate springs means that over both of the coils it works out that there is 760 less pounds, 345 kg, than the wagon. Seems like a lot less but you have to remember that two rear doors and a hatch, rear seat, side windows, roof, and all the lining etc add up to a lot!


Can see the rake it has right now is a bit much. Think the front and rear guards match a bit better now though and the bed sides don't look so plain now.
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  #1584  
Old 05-02-2021, 07:26 AM
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I like the proportions of the new fender. Agree with your thoughts on how it should look.
Thanks for posting
Steve
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  #1585  
Old 05-02-2021, 07:49 AM
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I agree, that looks a lot better!
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  #1586  
Old 05-02-2021, 08:40 AM
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Length looks good, but just a wee bit high. IMHO. Is the height same as the front clearance?
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  #1587  
Old 05-02-2021, 09:08 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Marcus - just a suggestion. End the fender with a back bend?
Like the front wheel. At the top, I would make looser bends - a larger angle - open. The car will look longer.
Make the fender lower overall. Longer but lower. Bud good work.



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  #1588  
Old 05-03-2021, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaroslav View Post
Marcus - just a suggestion. End the fender with a back bend?
Like the front wheel. At the top, I would make looser bends - a larger angle - open. The car will look longer.
Make the fender lower overall. Longer but lower. Bud good work.



Attachment 59840
That shape is too 1930's and not the late 1940's when this truck was made.

The skirts and step etc are still to be made and added.
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  #1589  
Old 05-03-2021, 05:59 AM
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I wanted to get a better idea of close to final ride height. The centre coil is the stock Grand Cherokee donor one and had the rear sitting up 50mm-2" higher than stock due to so much less weight. On the right is a new Grand Cherokee SRT Eibach lowering coil that had it sitting 25mm-1" lower than stock. The only other spring I had on hand on the left was a stock rear coil spring from my KK Cherokee. Happened to have the same top and bottom coil size as the Grand Cherokee. When I fitted those it brought the back down to the stock donor height!


Just have the guard balanced on a block but gives a better idea of how the guard shape sits over the tyre.


This still leaves just under 25mm-1" of rake which is how I usually set my vehicles up. That way with the offroad camper trailer hitched and load it will sit level.
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  #1590  
Old 05-03-2021, 06:35 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
That shape is too 1930's and not the late 1940's when this truck was made.

The skirts and step etc are still to be made and added.

I would do the fender termination, flat surface outside and radius from the wheel outwards. Shape-like radius as in the photo.
It would look optically lower at the same size. The round shapes of the 1930s are clear. Only idea.


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