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  #521  
Old 08-20-2016, 08:03 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Time to start chopping 2" out of the door window frames.


With the rear wall cut lower down than the cut in the window frame, I will have to address the angle so it bends in the same spot. If I should ever do one again, I will line the cuts up from the start.


At the same height as where the rear wall was sectioned, I cut into the window frame. Didn't go all the way through so I would get a smoother bend.


Now the window frame lines up perfectly.


There was a slight taper to the window frame, so rather than cut slots to shrink the wider section, I stretched out the upper narrow section to match by hammering against the T dolly.


Used a offset bolster to move the fold to match and stretch the corners as well.


Lines up well enough now to blend in.


Was able to weld all the way around to get full strength.


Angle matches the rear corner as well.


Now weld it up and then to extend it forward to meet the front of the door. Not only have to add the 4.5" that I made the door longer, but extra due to the chop as well.


Due to the curve in the door, but flat on the inside, I had to pick the best place to cut it through that it would still match up with the new front section without ending up with two widest points!


With the edges being straight, I could slowly trim up the new piece until it all lined up with the rulers. The backside will be checked as well to make sure that stays flat and true.


Fortunately it worked out well that differences in the age of the pressings of the door top worked in my favour and was able to match the 1948 rear section with the 1958 front section with the extra length needed. Nearly there in this shot. Doing it this way saves having an extra join in the top of the frame.


The other side was completed as well. Thought I was finished but noticed below where I had made my join that there was some lead fill there.


Removed the lead and found a bad repair job that only had a few tacks holding it together!


Cut the whole affected area out as had been ground quite thin previously. Also my digital level gauge showed this was tilting at the different angle to the back of the window frame. That would be bad for the glass as would jam up and not run smoothly.


Welded in a new piece and got the angle to match so all 4 window frame sides were exactly the same.


Now with the window frames done I will have something to line the A pillar up against to get even door gaps.


Starting to get a bit of an idea how it all will turn out.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-13-2017 at 12:53 PM.
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  #522  
Old 08-20-2016, 08:59 AM
CaptonZap CaptonZap is offline
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Are you keeping track of the man hours of labor you are putting into this?
Just amazing.

CZ
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  #523  
Old 08-20-2016, 02:22 PM
galooph galooph is offline
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Stunning work, Marcus you make it look easy!
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  #524  
Old 08-20-2016, 09:26 PM
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Thanks Dan and Jerry.

Not keeping a track of the hours as treat it as a learning experience to learn new skills.
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  #525  
Old 08-22-2016, 09:32 AM
keith keith is offline
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Enjoy following your progress. Thanks for taking the time to show all of the small details.

Keith
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  #526  
Old 08-23-2016, 05:41 AM
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Thanks Keith, glad to hear that I am not over doing it.
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  #527  
Old 08-24-2016, 06:45 AM
onya onya is offline
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Marcus,

Last count 133,251 views on this thread, that's phenomenal.
I don't keep account of my man hours either but I do keep a spread sheet on how many dollars I have spent at which supplier and that's pretty scary.
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  #528  
Old 08-24-2016, 05:20 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
So long as the tips are kept at 3mm, it is working perfectly on 0.9+0.9mm and have to be careful not to have too much clamping pressure or hold the trigger too long. Has burnt right through that thickness a couple of times while I was getting used to it. It rated at 1.2+1.2mm but have not tried that yet.
A very experienced welder buddy paid me a shop visit a week or so back and suggested that if the spot welder I have seems maxed out at 1+1, try hitting it again before the first spot cools too far. Haven't tried it yet (my machine has a timer) but will do some tests shortly and report.

Cab is looking great Marcus - they would have never rolled off the line with such precise door gaps
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  #529  
Old 08-25-2016, 05:30 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onya View Post
Marcus,

Last count 133,251 views on this thread, that's phenomenal.
I don't keep account of my man hours either but I do keep a spread sheet on how many dollars I have spent at which supplier and that's pretty scary.
I have spent more on tools and building the workshop for it than anything else! Still the value of our house went up a lot because of the workshop, garage and sheds I have built to house it all at the last valuation.
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aka. Gojeep
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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  #530  
Old 08-25-2016, 05:31 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skintkarter View Post
A very experienced welder buddy paid me a shop visit a week or so back and suggested that if the spot welder I have seems maxed out at 1+1, try hitting it again before the first spot cools too far. Haven't tried it yet (my machine has a timer) but will do some tests shortly and report.

Cab is looking great Marcus - they would have never rolled off the line with such precise door gaps
Gaps were shocking from the factory!
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aka. Gojeep
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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