#1
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Identify this hammer?
https://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum...er-jpg.133729/
Member of the Old Willys Forum wondered what this hammer might be that he has? I hope the link works?
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#2
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Link for registered users only. How many clubs would I have to be in...?
It seems to me that if you want to meet a girl... you have to fill out a questionnaire, describe your qualities... so that you can only say hello to her without much interest.... Isn't there something wrong???
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Jaroslav |
#3
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Sorry about that as was worried it might not work as they had uploaded it to that site.
Looked similar to this. The photo had this description under it. "Old metal anvil for punching a hand scythe"
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#4
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The pointed one is hammered into a wooden block and the hammer is held by the wooden handle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EwuBJitw8oM
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Jaroslav |
#5
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So is it a way of sharpening a type of draw knife?
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Mark |
#6
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That general hammer type is called a bording hammer or a grooving hammer. You can find them on the hammersource site.
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Dave Bradbury |
#7
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Not really. This method is typically used for thin bladed tools like scythes used to cut grass and hay, but can be used on other tools of suitable temper & hardness. I’ve done some sharpening like the video shows with tools I have on hand. It’s a developed skill to do well, not as simple as it may seem & I’m not an expert at it yet.. the final hone may be resolved with a stone, but at that point it will only remove a fraction of metal by comparison.
Imho it likely dates back to copper and Bronze Age tools, as meant to preserve precious resources. That just makes sense, because it is how the tools were made in the first place. Work hardening the cutting edge also helps overcome inherently soft or inconsistently tempered material. Comparable process of hammering tools into or back to a usable edge is still normal for servicing dulled fire-steel stone chisels after they're heated in a forge. As I understand it, the method has specific benefits- 1. to carefully reshape and draw the edge back to (or very close to) sharpness by displacing metal instead of removing it by abrasion or cutting. Properly done, it can significantly extend the life of the tool so is very economical compared to abrasive methods which quickly consume & exhaust the tool. The hammering will work-harden the edge at the same time it is being sharpened. If the blade edge becomes brittle to the point of cracking, it can easily be annealed. 2. When compared to an abraded or file cut edge that is relatively straight by comparison, the hammered edge will more likely be slightly uneven or undulated, comparable to the cutting edge of a kris but on a minute scale. This waviness helps the blade trap and cut the grass or hay more efficiently than a smooth cutting edge. 3. to create & maintain a slight concave area immediately behind the cutting edge, which benefits cutting performance by reducing friction. For comparison, Japanese tools methods have a analogous feature called a ura. For thin blade edges, a ura is produced by hammering just behind the cutting edge. Very delicate task. Having this hollow or relief immediately behind the actual cutting edge can make a notable difference in carving and other tools including chisels & draw knives. I make sure my heavier blades have a relief bevel or concave like that.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#8
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Quote:
Cliffy, Thank you for that write up. I completely over looked the video link until I read your post. I had just looked up the hammer type at the hammer source website.
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Dave Bradbury |
#9
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Yes, this way you sharpen your scythe very well - you thin the blade and then lightly resharpen it with a hand sharpener during work. No motor and only long straws.
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Jaroslav |
#10
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Thanks for the replies and the effort to do it. I learned something !
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Mark |
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