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  #1731  
Old 03-16-2021, 09:57 PM
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red baron red baron is offline
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Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Mike, I talked to Ray a few days ago. I gave him your email address.
Sweet thank you!
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  #1732  
Old 03-21-2021, 09:31 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is online now
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I decided after all not to use the modified CTS air cleaner box but I did use the CTS air inlet tube. It has a boss for the PCV hose and the MAF sensor. If you're going to use these two devices on your project, you have to put the PCV tube ahead of the MAF sensor. Otherwise you would be allowing air into the intake without being monitored by the MAF sensor resulting in a false reading.
Also, the filter and tube assembly will be mounted to the core support so the flexible area of the tube will absorb engine vibration rather than transfer it to the rigid mounted filter.


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All buttoned up (for now) and everything fits. I adapted the original 49 hood latch to accept the release cable and "Hood Ajar" switch from the CTS.
The blob above the core support is just a snorkel to move air from the filter to the engine. There is no practical way to run a 3 1/2" round tube from the grill area to the engine. The radiator and strut towers completely
block passage. There are two ports on the bottom of the snorkel that accept the intake tubes.
The engine bay was never intended to be glamorous. It is intended to be clean, uncluttered, and easily serviced. I can access the fuse box, washer fluid neck, radiator cap, master cylinder, and power steering reservoir without removing closure panels.


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 03-21-2021 at 10:17 PM.
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  #1733  
Old 03-21-2021, 10:08 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Looks great Jack!
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  #1734  
Old 03-22-2021, 08:15 AM
brisner brisner is offline
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jack u must be thrilled to death to realize your plan, oh and what a plan .Cant help to compare some of the stying cues to cadzzilla.Just cant say enough about this build THX bob
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  #1735  
Old 03-24-2021, 02:28 PM
NDM NDM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
I decided after all not to use the modified CTS air cleaner box but I did use the CTS air inlet tube. It has a boss for the PCV hose and the MAF sensor. If you're going to use these two devices on your project, you have to put the PCV tube ahead of the MAF sensor. Otherwise you would be allowing air into the intake without being monitored by the MAF sensor resulting in a false reading.
Also, the filter and tube assembly will be mounted to the core support so the flexible area of the tube will absorb engine vibration rather than transfer it to the rigid mounted filter.


Attachment 59139


All buttoned up (for now) and everything fits. I adapted the original 49 hood latch to accept the release cable and "Hood Ajar" switch from the CTS.
The blob above the core support is just a snorkel to move air from the filter to the engine. There is no practical way to run a 3 1/2" round tube from the grill area to the engine. The radiator and strut towers completely
block passage. There are two ports on the bottom of the snorkel that accept the intake tubes.
The engine bay was never intended to be glamorous. It is intended to be clean, uncluttered, and easily serviced. I can access the fuse box, washer fluid neck, radiator cap, master cylinder, and power steering reservoir without removing closure panels.


Attachment 59140
YUCK!!

That car and all it's hideous work looks so aweso......I mean aweful that you should grab the title, sign it and give it to me so I can dispose of it!
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  #1736  
Old 03-31-2021, 09:46 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is online now
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YUCK!!

....grab the title, sign it and give it to me so I can dispose of it!
Go out and wait by your mailbox.
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  #1737  
Old 03-31-2021, 01:14 PM
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Beautiful work Jack !!!!
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  #1738  
Old 04-04-2021, 10:00 PM
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While working on the right side window regulator, I somehow lost power to the window regulators. Both of them. I started working on some other stuff that needed finishing while trying to sort out the power problem. At the moment, I still haven't found it but I decided to focus on getting all the electrical loose ends buttoned up.


I started with grounds. The CTS harness has groups of chassis ground wires roughly every 3 feet along the length on both sides of the vehicle. I welded in threaded bungs to the floor boards for the harness ground wires, then ran 8ga wire from the bungs to the frame. I did the same thing from the main battery ground but I used a full size battery ground cable to tie in the frame to the bung on the body. A little overkill, but I don't need to worry about faulty grounds.I double checked the ground wires in the engine compartment also.

With a vehicle so heavily reliant on electronics I need to eliminate all variables. I'm not real strong with electronics. It's difficult for me to troubleshoot. I finished the wiring on the air ride system, trunk release, emergency brake, and adapted the CTS "Hood Ajar" switch to the 49 hood latch.
From this point, I knew I needed a service manual to track down the remaining issues; window regulators, reverse light switch and a couple other things. I found a download for a service manual specifically for a 2014 CTS Coupe. Get this: 8,843 pages! You read that right 8,843.
Below is a screen shot of the home page but the page numbers (Circled) aren't clear enough to read.


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Using the manual to ID the wiring at the main connectors for the headlights, I figured out how to adapt the aftermarket headlights and home made parking lamps to the original CTS wiring.

I can't eliminate anything that was in the original CTS headlight or it could create problems. An example of this would be the DRLs (daytime running lights). On the CTS, there was one mini bulb in front, and on the side of the lamp there was a small SDS card with 4 LEDs attached. I wont be using any side lighting. I ran the mini bulb down to the parking lamp housing and used the wiring for the SDS card to operate the halo lights. I had to leave the SDS card hooked up because on the back of the card, there is some circuitry that I'm not sure of. I think part of what's there might step 12Volt input to 5Volts for the LEDs, but it could also be sending information back to the BCM (body control module) regarding the status of the lighting; load, resistance, etc..

So, I'll just leave the card in the harness inside the fender. The picture below is the left side DRL halo in the headlight and the mini bulb down in the parking lamp housing.


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High beam with halo.


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Turn signal. (I had to take about a half dozen pictures before I caught it lit up)


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DRL, halo, and running lights done on both sides. Everything works, hi beam, lo beam, halos, running lights, turn signals, and flashers. (No sparks or smoke)


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Last edited by Jack 1957; 04-04-2021 at 10:14 PM.
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  #1739  
Old 04-05-2021, 05:19 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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I went through the same thing and think I was around 60 pages just to sort the door wiring out!
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  #1740  
Old 04-06-2021, 10:03 PM
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8843 pages is why I left the service industry 15 years ago.....
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