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  #431  
Old 10-22-2016, 10:44 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Next I just started taping along the laser line with 3/4 tape (same width as the MDF ribs).

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You can see here that the laser is on the peak of the fender and as it moves forward, it runs off the edge of the panel where the mounting flange is. I will be adding an extra inch along the flange to gain tire clearance. The tape on the panel is 1" wide and represents that additional inch of width. The arrow drawn on the tape indicates where the flange side of the panel will cross over the buck. So, while most of the panel will straddle both sides of the buck, as it approaches the front, it will all be on the one side.

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Here are all the ribs, spaced 12" apart. Next flip the panel over, set the shot bag on it to keep it from moving and start transferring the perimeter location to the MDF. Ron Covell has a good video showing this process. Here's the link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ktj5DWaKXYI When you're plotting out the shape, mark where the ends of the tape lines are. That's how you know where the ribs go. So there it is. I modified the shape some to clean up the lines and there will be a couple areas that I'll have to work out along the way like the tail tight and bumper shapes.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 10-23-2016 at 01:18 AM.
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  #432  
Old 10-23-2016, 09:19 PM
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I started cutting some windows in and in the process I noticed that the piece started sagging a little bit over the stand. This fender is almost 7 feet long. MDF is dense and fairly stable but I guess there's always a limit. It's not real problem, I can incorporate a stiffening strip along the length.

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  #433  
Old 10-29-2016, 11:10 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I needed a way to level the original fender in horizontal and vertical planes so I just made a quick stand out of some scrap ply wood and shimmed the bottom till I got it leveled.


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Leveling in the vertical plane was not very positive. There are not many straight lines on this panel. The only straight vertical line is a very small peak along the back edge between the bumper and the tail light. It's not much but it's all I have to work with.

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The only straight line in the horizontal plane is the series of bolt holes where the body side moldings attach. If you look close you can see the laser line along the edge of the tape.

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Since I modified the shape on the edge of the deck, I needed to make a sweep that would match the shape and location of that change. I have it clamped to the mounting flange of the fender. I also have some 1" spacers between the flange and the sweep to give me the additional inch of width for tire clearance. I am making a lot of changes from the original fender and it will be difficult to make the stations. I will probably have to rough them in, then mount them to the buck and fair them in by eye. This was the main reason I want to make one buck that can be reversed to make it work for the right and left fenders.

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  #434  
Old 10-30-2016, 02:04 AM
PatfromFrance PatfromFrance is offline
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Hi Jack,
This is the start of a new and very important step.
Be sure i will follow it with attention !
Once again, thank for sharing.
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  #435  
Old 10-30-2016, 04:40 AM
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Will be good to see how this turns out Jack.
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  #436  
Old 10-30-2016, 10:19 AM
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Jack would you put in a little information on the laser and the stand you use, it looks like I need to find a place to store a new tool. Your postings and Ron's video clears up a lot of the very fine points of making a buck that to me seems a very complex undertaking. Thanks for all of the additional effort to pass on and simplify your extensive knowledge.
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  #437  
Old 10-30-2016, 05:14 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Very interesting work and I enjoyed your excellent description about buck making.

I too am fascinated by your laser - please spill the beans!

Cheers Charlie
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  #438  
Old 10-30-2016, 08:21 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is online now
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Jack, regarding post 432, photo #1. I like your station spacing and the rear stations have good back side viewing particularly at the top. Id consider cutting a half moon or 2 triangles out of the front of your backbone so backside viewing is excellent at the front of the fender as well, otherwise you end up working blind in that area. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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  #439  
Old 10-30-2016, 10:07 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobD View Post
Jack would you put in a little information on the laser and the stand you use, it looks like I need to find a place to store a new tool. Your postings and Ron's video clears up a lot of the very fine points of making a buck that to me seems a very complex undertaking...
Bob, the laser I use is just a craftsman Model 320.48251. You can get them online for about $40. You can shop any brand but do yourself a favor and get one with a leveling base. It makes it much easier to align the beam.

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I also use a photography tripod that I have sometimes but it's not a necessity. You can stack up anything that's around to get the height you need then just level the laser and you're all set up. If you look at this picture, you'll see the aluminum ladder against the wall. I set the laser on the step to get a bead on the rear vertical body line because I didn't have enough room to get the tripod back there.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 10-30-2016 at 10:12 PM.
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  #440  
Old 10-30-2016, 10:34 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch View Post
J ... I’d consider cutting a half moon or 2 triangles out of the front of your backbone so backside viewing is excellent at the front of the fender as well, otherwise you end up working blind in that area. ~ John Buchtenkirch
John, Thanks for the input. As I mentioned earlier, The centerline of the fender crosses over the centerline of the buck about 14" short of the front edge. That semi circle on the leading edge will eventually be cut off. I plotted out the location of the stations and I will build a second front section that will be tilted upward about 10 degrees. That one will have windows. I will transfer the information from the original to the tilted spine then remove the original.
Being an advanced skilled metal shaper yourself, you already know that these things can get pretty complex. I am changing a few of the curves on this so I can't make accurate templates for a lot of the stations. This is probably not the best buck to use for teaching the newer guys because it will deviate from standard practices but I guess there'll still be a useful lesson: Visualize what you need and do what you need to do to get there. There are no rules, only results matter.
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Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can.

Last edited by Jack 1957; 10-30-2016 at 10:44 PM.
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