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  #1271  
Old 04-17-2020, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
Picklex would still need to come off before anything is applied. I've had to do several where the metal guys used it before it got to me. If it isn't and epoxy is applied paint failure is somewhere down the road. I've redone for customers two cars where the paint peels off in sheets over the metal treatment. One was 2 months old, the other was about a year old.
It's a pain to take off it, or any acid treatment for that matter and I don't understand why metal guys feel the need to do it. All of the various metal treatments say it doesn't need to be removed but all the paint manufacturers say it does.
There is so much snake oil marketing out there (not specifically referring to picklex) but they are all phosphoric acid based including Picklex
Picklex marketers don't even know or understand paint chemistry because they specifically say that self etch primer can't be used, when that is the one type of primer that can used over a phosphoric acid treatment without rinsing.
Bottom line is if you plan on using a quality modern automotive epoxy primer, the only thing you want to apply it over is clean 80 grit machine sanded(DA/Orbital) steel. 180 grit if you are working with aluminum. Any metal treatment that is not removed will result in paint failure at some point down the road.

https://picklex20.com/wp-content/upl...icklex-201.pdf
Reel it in, hoss. I didn't say a word about painting over it.
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  #1272  
Old 04-17-2020, 05:51 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is online now
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Wasn't aiming that at you Matt. Just trying to make folks aware.
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  #1273  
Old 04-17-2020, 07:14 PM
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OK. I don't disagree anyway. As to why metal guys feel a need... take it from a painter gone metal guy... if they stopped using it, you would find out pretty quick why. We all sweat.
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  #1274  
Old 04-18-2020, 06:11 AM
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I did the cab shell today with the Ranex treatment after cleaning off the lanolin with acetone. Probably shouldn't have done the whole cab in one hit as was running around non stop getting it all on there with a cloth soaked in the acid and then keeping it all wet for the 20 minutes. Then used a wet rag to wipe it all down. It started to go 'chalky' as it dried so kept going over with the wet rag until it didn't do that. 95% of it looks good but a few spots are showing faint surface rust from all the wipe downs. Did I perhaps use too wet a cloth or not enough product on those places?
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  #1275  
Old 04-18-2020, 05:34 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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I have been using Ranex for 40 years and haven't noticed any ill effect with paint.

I painted my truck in enamel, over Ranex-treated rust about 22 years ago and the paint is coming off now through weathering, because it has been sitting outside all that time. No lifting of paint at all.

Ranex is a phosphoric acid treatment,

Cheers Charlie
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  #1276  
Old 04-18-2020, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie Myres View Post
I have been using Ranex for 40 years and haven't noticed any ill effect with paint.

I painted my truck in enamel, over Ranex-treated rust about 22 years ago and the paint is coming off now through weathering, because it has been sitting outside all that time. No lifting of paint at all.

Ranex is a phosphoric acid treatment,

Cheers Charlie
Excellent news Charlie.
Any tips on appying it?
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  #1277  
Old 04-19-2020, 05:12 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Excellent news Charlie.
Any tips on appying it?
Well like most rust-converters it will convert light rust but it will not penetrate to any great depth.

So, as with your lemon-bath, it is best to use chemical or mechanical means, to get as much rust out of the pits as possible; bearing in mind that pitting can be macroscopic so it is always there and something needs to be done about the rust at the bottom of them.

As we know, as soon as a de-rusted panel is exposed to the atmosphere, it starts to rust again, so that is when I wipe Ranex on with a rag or brush. In the early days I just used a brush and didn't bother to wipe it off, but this leaves a build up of deposits, which need to be sanded or brushed off later.

At paint time I just use the usual sanding and de-greasing procedures.

I have had Ranexed panels sitting inside for weeks before painting and no rust reappeared. However, as mentioned previously by others, it is important to make sure that the paint-system that you wish to use, is compatible before wasting a lot of money. I have used enamel mainly and acrylic paint once with no issues,

Cheers Charlie
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  #1278  
Old 04-19-2020, 07:07 PM
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Thank you Charlie.
Directions say on the container to use enamel primers over it.

I think I have made the mistake of reapplying it to keep it wet for the 20 minutes before rubbing with a dry cloth and taking most back off again. I'll try today applying once, leaving for 20 minutes and then rubbing with a dry cloth to get any excess off to help drying.
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  #1279  
Old 04-22-2020, 12:18 AM
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I have been holding off posting the finished grille until the mesh I ordered a few weeks ago arrives and I can fit it all back together.

One of the the things I am looking at in the meantime it to cover up the ugly coils and harness.


5 years ago I bought a pair of original early HEMI covers as thought they would make cool coil covers. Would break the 2008 OEM theme I have been doing under the bonnet now though, except for the WWII horn. Would it clash too much or could the mix work? It would cover all the existing valve covers as well as the coil and injector wiring as I moved all that already for these.


If I wanted to keep the OEM theme going I could fit some covers like these. Might try and build them though as they are rather pricey.

So old or new?
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  #1280  
Old 04-22-2020, 01:42 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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The third option. The Tatra 603 has aluminum covers for each cylinder. Make something similar your own design from stainless steel or sheet steel - with your own logo. Go Jeep !!!



Lorry
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