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  #11  
Old 10-28-2020, 11:29 PM
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drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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That looks like a cool project. No-filler butt joint work would not be military style anyway, would it?

The Model A I did will use 18.5" wide rear tires so I tubbed it and changed from the original mostly vertical fender mounting surface to horizontal. So on a smaller scale, they ended up much the same shape as what you have going. Doing a nice job in that scenario is a challenge.

The compressor? Um, I am spoiled by shop air all day so not the best one to ask. However I have the $150 on sale upright compressor for airing up tires at home. Best guess, you'll want to multitask because it may run short a bit. Running the rock slow is ideal so probably not as much catching up time with that or the angle grinder but if you need to make a four foot cut thats a different story. For cutting, its full speed.

As to my preference... well its a matter of which tools continue working for any length of time. My strategy is to buy cheapos and many of them have silly problems right out of the box but some survive. That much is a crap shoot. Unregulated shop air blows away the throttles on the cheapos.

I prefer wheeling with guarded tools, be it grinding or cutting, and have my now-unguarded blue CH and since I started doing fab I use a 4" guarded HF cutoff tool. Thats all I have that works wheels. For the twist lock discs, I have a tool somebody gave me thats like a 5" angle grinder wearing a quick change drill chuck. Your plan sounds fine to me with the 2" 36 grit. All I can add is that I often have difficulty gauging the condition of a partially used disc by feel. They do go away fast but they are mean while they last. But then they start to make lots of heat as they wear out.

If you run across some fuzzy looking kind of discs while you are shopping, perhaps indulge in some of those too. You may find that using some "mule hide" discs like that, in between the 36 grinder and 80 DA... helps a bunch in a situation like yours where some leveling with a more flexible abrasive can help the apperarance. We use maroon 3" rolocs and they work well for blending irregularities after sectioning on outer panels. I only have a 2" mandrel but it doesn't have trouble securely holding a 3" one of those and in your situation with the inside curve doing that may be advantageous.

If you are new to twist lock discs... a new tool with a new pad and a fresh disc, or the disc that got ran over, or the discs with cheap glue holding sandpaper to plastic... etc, are times when increased potential exists for injury / damage and remember this: When you trigger off is the time when the disc goes flying. Be watchful. Guys tend to throttle whip a tool a couple times before starting on the workpiece. After getting a fresh disc. Imagine a fan blade snapping off an engine and you get the picture. Heads up!

Enjoy your project.
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  #12  
Old 10-29-2020, 07:25 PM
Philipj Philipj is offline
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Default Fender Widening 1939 Chevy 1.5 ton truck...

Yes, I find it interesting, since it is a rare truck and no one else is doing it... The military jobs are known or lousy paint, O.D. not olive drab, but over dirt... other than that, no bondo, especially in the 40's... It would have been lead!

The job is al challenge indeed, since I have never done it before and I am a novice, but desire is everything...

As for the compressor I am getting the McGraw 20 gallon, 1.6 HP, 135 PSI vertical air compressor from Harbor Freight... I probably just use it for grinding with a small angle grinder and 2" discs; for cutting I always use the Dewalt grinder, I'm used to that for many years...

I have seen the fuzzy discs and wondered if they're any good... I am anxious to try a new tool and set up... Should get the compressor tomorrow!

Yet, I have another question to do with this job... I am at the point where I am folding the lip on the fender and I am coming to the curve... I had to cut the edge of the lip I am bending to make the curve, but what is the best cut to make on the end where it curves do that it comes together ?

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Last edited by galooph; 10-30-2020 at 05:35 AM.
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  #13  
Old 10-29-2020, 10:42 PM
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Over dirt.

I think I would cut it along center of the lip bend about an inch up past the new edge then curl the inner lip side under the face of the panel while reshaping it and trying not to hurt the face side. Then trim, tack, etc. But if I did something a hundred times, that doesn't mean I did it right even once.

I gotta say I also think twice as many pie cuts might get you better results. And I understand it is a work in progress. Its funny you and I were both creating new outer panel edges with pliers today. I started off with channel locks on mine and finished with Stanley lineman pliers. In between there was a 3" jaw pair of locking pliers and a bit of slapper on the sharp end of a comma dolly. Only trouble is, as always... making the other side match!

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Last edited by galooph; 10-30-2020 at 05:36 AM.
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  #14  
Old 11-09-2020, 08:11 PM
Philipj Philipj is offline
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Default Fender Widening 1939 Chevy 1.5 ton truck...

Hello Matt,

You do great work and are far ahead of me... I ended up figuring out how to finish off the fender, first with a piece of paper, and then just saying, heck cut it, you can weld it afterwards if you really screw it up...

It is also tricky to do one fender (curve) and then work on the other side... Your brain plays tricks on you, specially being inexperienced! Below you can see what I ended up with...

thumbnail_IMG_7745.jpg

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Last edited by galooph; 11-10-2020 at 03:07 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-10-2020, 07:16 AM
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drivejunk drivejunk is offline
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Thats the spirit! Nice going. Looks like you did fine.

Your alteration at the front will make a big difference in the look. On the prewar stuff, the eye trumps the yardstick. Count your blessings since the rest of your pair of fenders appear to match well. On that Model A the rear fenders were curved differently on top due to being made by different manufacturers.

Good stuff. Carry on, Phillipe.

Note to galooph: The way I posted my last pic was no mistake. I did not intend for it to appear inline. FYI. No worries though. Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 11-11-2020, 02:44 AM
Brzeczyszczykiewicz Brzeczyszczykiewicz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philipj View Post

Why you my ask? first to become self sufficient, secondly I could not bear to pay someone to do something instead of learning it myself and not having the means to even begin to try anything else down the road, given that this is my hobby... By that I mean that, purchasing a mig (however modest) cost less than paying someone to do the job again...
Now you know that you pay someone not only for work, but also for the tools and 20 years of experience they use.
Good luck. I also started with nothing. I welded the first car with an MMA electrode.
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  #17  
Old 11-11-2020, 04:13 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is online now
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I think it's a great result. If you are not in a hurry and give yourself time, thoughts and views will help you.
I once heard the phrase "It may be crooked, but it must not be seen."

That's how it works with those old things. Scanning and measuring need to be left to modern things that are manufactured for 2 - 4 years of use. For old things, it must be nice. How you will get the result and what is your problem is it only your fight.
Equip a workshop for debt and then worry about stress, everyone can do it, but the result is up for discussion ....

Joy is the main thing. If there is money from it, the joy is doubled.
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2020, 10:28 PM
Philipj Philipj is offline
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Default Fender Widening 1939 Chevy 1.5 ton truck...

Here is a quick shot of the other truck with the widened fenders, as the original desert trucks....

DSC_6640R B.jpg

DSC_6643R - Copy.jpg

DSC_6785 - Copy R.jpg

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LRDG 4.JPG

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800px-LRDG_W8_Waikaha_IWM_2007_06.jpg

40 Chev IWM.jpg
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Last edited by galooph; 11-12-2020 at 03:03 AM.
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