#11
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This worked well to remove the inclusions that remained after the acid treatment.
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- Tom D |
#12
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Hey Tommy,
Thank u for the updates man! How has the muriatic process worked out since posting? Are the pieces still holding up? I've heard tale muriatic is very hard to remove from the steel, how did u go about neutralizing? I have quarter panels that were in a similar position, the rust was baked on tough. Went thru the same courses, phosphoric, naval jelly, steel wool etc. Tried muriatic and it was a breakthrough. I wore a respirator gloves long sleeves and feel the process is worth the safety garb. Sifting through the internet horror stories on muriatic / hydrochloric, it has been thoroughly demonized. A lot of the old "it rusted my shop overnight," but also some more exotic themes like hydrogen embrittlement and residual chloride ion reaction on the steel. Has anyone went on to have real issues with their material when muriatic is given its dues? I'm no chemist, and when it comes to metals my alchemy is still under development. Is a thorough baking soda spray/soak/rinse sufficient to neutralize and remove the trace muriatic on a panel, do others follow that up with phosphoric acid to seal the deal? That's what I found to work out. Also experimenting with oven cleaner since it is basically foaming lye.
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Dennis from I.E., California '51 Ford F1 Project 1966-77 Broncos Here to learn |
#13
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A much safer way to remove rust with no nasty health, or side-effects, is to use 1 part molasses with 10 parts water. Immerse the parts, best in warm water, and allow it to completely remove every speck of rust.
The "now" generation want it to work instantly, so they won't like the fact that really heavy scale can take two weeks to disappear, depending on the water temperature. Patient people will find something else that needs doing, Cheers Charlie P.S. It won't kill lawns, or rust things in the workshop, or attack your skin.
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Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
#14
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My preferred method is molasses, but The neighbors complain about the smell so I switched to Citric acid.
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Norm Henderson |
#15
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Trying whatever gets the stuff shiny again. All fall subject to the detached gaze of the speed/cost/quality triangle regardless of the immediacy of one's generation.
Looking forward to pulling those running boards out, and not a week too soon! IMG_20210412_171941.jpg IMG_20210427_153213.jpg IMG_20210421_171048.jpg IMG_20210423_230137.jpg IMG_20210427_200204.jpg IMG_20210430_181358.jpg
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Dennis from I.E., California '51 Ford F1 Project 1966-77 Broncos Here to learn Last edited by galooph; 05-01-2021 at 03:06 AM. |
#16
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I do all my rust removal with electrolysis.
Best method I have ever used. Simple and effective.
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Dave Bradbury |
#17
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I think I'm ready
Electrolysis Rust Removal: https://www.metaldetectingworld.com/..._removal.shtml Edit: Link description.
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Dennis from I.E., California '51 Ford F1 Project 1966-77 Broncos Here to learn Last edited by 2020Presence; 05-01-2021 at 07:41 PM. |
#18
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Quote:
I wash all my parts in dish soap after electrolysis rust removal. Gets rid of the black residue.
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Dave Bradbury |
#19
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Awesome, what are u using to power your rig?
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Dennis from I.E., California '51 Ford F1 Project 1966-77 Broncos Here to learn |
#20
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A Diehard 12 volt manual charger. I also have another manual 12 volt charger that I use but I can't find the brand name. I have had that charger for years. You want a manual charger that has an amperage gauge in it. You can regulate the amperage output of the charger by the amount of Borax you put in the water. The more Borax you use the higher the amperage output. Also somewhat faster process with higher amperage. You have to keep your eyes on the process somewhat as the water tends to evaporate faster with higher amperage. I also like flat clean sheet metal as the sacrificial piece. I produce lots of scrap trying to make panels Most of the rust and crap will stick to the side facing the part your de-rusting. Then you can turn it around and use the other side. Once you get set up and play with the process some I think it is all you will ever use in the future.
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Dave Bradbury |
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