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  #1121  
Old 02-08-2019, 11:01 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Jack,
Will you be casting in sand or will you be using the plaster slurry over the foam?
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  #1122  
Old 02-08-2019, 11:25 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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I won't be doing the pour myself but he did describe the process. He brushes on a slightly thinned layer of joint compound. When it's dry it goes into a container with dry sand then vibrated and cast.
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  #1123  
Old 02-10-2019, 11:19 AM
kcoffield kcoffield is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
After some discussion with Kelly (kcoffield. See post 1121 of this thread) he has convinced me that I can get good quality castings using the lost foam method with a much better chance of nailing it in one shot.
Looks like you took to fabricating foam like you do everything else.....very well. If you do much of it's good to keep a shop vac handy or the stuff gets everywhere. Looking forward to seeing the patterns.

Best,
Kelly
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  #1124  
Old 02-10-2019, 02:14 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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What type of foam is it? How did you shape it? Sanding? Carving it out?
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  #1125  
Old 02-10-2019, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_Hamilton View Post
What type of foam is it? How did you shape it? Sanding? Carving it out?

I used 2" thick Owens Corning 150 insulation board. I used my drill press with a router bit to hog out deep pockets, the belt sander to rough in the shapes, wood glue to bond them together, then the hand held mini belt sander and razor knives to do finer shaping, then hand sanding to finish

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  #1126  
Old 02-10-2019, 09:36 PM
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Almost done. I'll do a little finish sanding and that's it for these.

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  #1127  
Old 02-10-2019, 10:16 PM
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Good looking patterns, Jack. They should turn out nice.
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  #1128  
Old 02-13-2019, 08:18 PM
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I finished up the patterns and sent them off to be cast. In the mean time I need to get moving on the bumpers and roof. I'll do the rear bumper first since I have all the materials in house
I am going to build mounting brackets and a round tube perimeter framework for the rear bumper. It will serve two purposes, first it will act as a buck for cutting and shaping the stainless sheet. Second, it will be welded to the sheet to form the radiused edges along the top and bottom. I'm using 5/8 OD .060 wall 304 ss tube for the upper and 1 1/2" 304 ss tube for the lower.
I made the center section first. You can get a long sweeping curve in tubing quickly just by smacking it on the cement floor. You just swing downward and make the hit at about 30 degrees off level. The momentum of the tube will push a smooth bend into the length of the tube. This one went well. I got it in two hits and only had to tweek one side just near the end. If you're going to do this, leave the tube long. Don't cut it to length until after it is bent. The place where your forward hand is will be near where th bending will stop.

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Next I bent up the inner curves with a tubing bender and welded them to the center section. I didn't do this all in one piece because the bends are very tight. Also it would be difficult to get the exact length. This needs to be a very close and accurate fit. I'm not doing a flush mount bumper but the gaps will be very tight.

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More time fitting, tweeking and adjusting.

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Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-14-2019 at 01:03 AM.
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  #1129  
Old 02-14-2019, 04:16 AM
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Great tip on the tube bending for a gradual curve.
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  #1130  
Old 02-14-2019, 05:05 AM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Nice job Jack and great tip on the tube bending!
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