#1121
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Jack,
Will you be casting in sand or will you be using the plaster slurry over the foam?
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#1122
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I won't be doing the pour myself but he did describe the process. He brushes on a slightly thinned layer of joint compound. When it's dry it goes into a container with dry sand then vibrated and cast.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1123
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Quote:
Best, Kelly
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Kelly Coffield www.inlinecarb.com - My Old Carburetor Habit http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showth...nace-Build-Log - My Home Foundry Furnace Build |
#1124
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What type of foam is it? How did you shape it? Sanding? Carving it out?
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#1125
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Quote:
I used 2" thick Owens Corning 150 insulation board. I used my drill press with a router bit to hog out deep pockets, the belt sander to rough in the shapes, wood glue to bond them together, then the hand held mini belt sander and razor knives to do finer shaping, then hand sanding to finish
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1126
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Almost done. I'll do a little finish sanding and that's it for these.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. |
#1127
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Good looking patterns, Jack. They should turn out nice.
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Eugene |
#1128
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I finished up the patterns and sent them off to be cast. In the mean time I need to get moving on the bumpers and roof. I'll do the rear bumper first since I have all the materials in house
I am going to build mounting brackets and a round tube perimeter framework for the rear bumper. It will serve two purposes, first it will act as a buck for cutting and shaping the stainless sheet. Second, it will be welded to the sheet to form the radiused edges along the top and bottom. I'm using 5/8 OD .060 wall 304 ss tube for the upper and 1 1/2" 304 ss tube for the lower. I made the center section first. You can get a long sweeping curve in tubing quickly just by smacking it on the cement floor. You just swing downward and make the hit at about 30 degrees off level. The momentum of the tube will push a smooth bend into the length of the tube. This one went well. I got it in two hits and only had to tweek one side just near the end. If you're going to do this, leave the tube long. Don't cut it to length until after it is bent. The place where your forward hand is will be near where th bending will stop. Next I bent up the inner curves with a tubing bender and welded them to the center section. I didn't do this all in one piece because the bends are very tight. Also it would be difficult to get the exact length. This needs to be a very close and accurate fit. I'm not doing a flush mount bumper but the gaps will be very tight. More time fitting, tweeking and adjusting.
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Jack Set a Goal So Big That You Can't Achieve It Until You Grow Into The Person That Can. Last edited by Jack 1957; 02-14-2019 at 01:03 AM. |
#1129
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Great tip on the tube bending for a gradual curve.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#1130
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Nice job Jack and great tip on the tube bending!
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Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
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