Model A Speedster Aluminum Body Build

[RockHillWill]

Good morning, my friend. I also love those old race cars, especially the open wheel variety. As fortunate as I have been in accumulating experience, tools and machines, my greatest treasure is the number and quality of friends that have passed thru my life from all over the world. I am proud to number you among them. By the way, have you heard the story about.................

[Kerry Pinkerton]

Little late to the party but congrats on a major milestone. Next step is that first drive around the block.

[racer-john]

Congratulations, Will, well done

[RockHillWill]

Finishing up the modifications required when I lowered the stock Model A radiator to fit under the hood line. Doing so was going to make the fan blades cut thru the upper radiator hose. The intent of this build was to get some metal shaping practice with aluminum panels and to do so as it might have been done by someone in the early 1930's, and I could not determine that electric 6-volt automotive fans were available during that time. That meant a mechanical solution and I chose to use a fan mounted to a 'jackshaft', made from another water pump, located more to the center of the radiator core, and make it belt driven. It is slightly offset to clear the standard Model A fan belt, making the full size Model A fan close to the modified lower radiator hose arrangement. Multiple 'steps' to avoid interference seems to have been accomplished. I made a three piece mounting bracket attaching to the water pump and the timing chain cover and welded it together. Then I machined the center out of a generator pulley and welded it to a standard water pump pulley that I machined the outer components off of. The tension for the jackshaft pulley is accomplished by changing the shims under the fan shaft bearings.

[rkolenda]

Looks good Will.Great to see it coming together.

[bobadame]

Cool fix Will. I've also seen this done by using a case shortened 6V generator (with the innards removed) instead of pillow blocks. The Speedster is getting close and looking good.

[RockHillWill]

As always, I have so many projects, I don't get much done on any one of them. Here is an update on the speedster.


My attempt at 'pick and file' work. I think it will sand out OK




Finished fitting the floor pan


Finished the accelerator pedal


This linkage for the dual Model A carburetors was done by Bob Kolenda


Very nicely done. He did the choke linkage as well (below)


I removed the standard Model A starter solenoid on favor of using a Ford 8n tractor solenoid, to address the issue of the foot operated starter 'rod' interfering with the chain linkage for the steering parts. I drilled and tapped the post to bolt a battery cable directly to it.


This picture is to show Bob how the voltmeter gauge is wired up. He did a really great job on the ne face and reading of this gauge, I will post a picture of the face later.

[CaptonZap]

You might want to check continuity between the gauge hold down brackets and ground. It looks like they are setting on some paint. Might be a good idea to run a ground wire from both of them to a bare metal spot some where. Or is that what the black wire is on the left hand gauge?
Sure is a purrdy thing.

CZ

[RockHillWill]

That is what the black wire is on the second gauge. We have test run this and all seems to be working great. You have good eyes, thanks.

[RockHillWill]

One more small step on the project. I got a set of friction shocks mounted in the vein of a 'racing/sporty' approach to this car. The bolt hole was correct but the arms were the same length, making arm 'modifications' necessary to account for the different arm lengths needed. I cut the shock mounts from some rear end housings and milled out the end of the arms to make the 'corrections'. A spacer was required at the rear to account for the lack of shock arm offset. Shock links to be installed shortly.