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#11
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I have several products from this company. I reinforced the frame for the EW.
https://www.heliotech.pl/produkty_pl.html
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In the morning I was convinced that this was the only solution. Witold https://photos.app.goo.gl/VTz6ETWQhnKyqUQYA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzcKlFjOAoE http://forum.poziome.pl/index.php?topic=1989.0 Last edited by Brzeczyszczykiewicz; 11-06-2025 at 05:34 AM. |
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#12
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Hallo all,
I am not quite sure which top and button anvils/diameters are necessary for shaping and finishing prewar race car panels. My final goal is to build a body for a Ford A rolling chassis. Since I am owning a lathe I could produce the anvils by myself. I am just wondering about the disadvantages of non-hardened wheels. Is it worse to built the anvils by myself if it comes to the comparison of saved money, working hours and the durability and precision of bought rollers? Is it also possible to use ball bearings for the upper wheel. I found one on the internet with the following spec: diameter 200 mm / 7,87402 Zoll width: 60mm / 2,6 Zoll (unfortunately can’t find a widther one) axle hole: 20mm / 0,787402 Zoll material: steel C45 dynamic load capacity: 1300 kg / 2.865,98 lbs Is this bearing useable for a english wheel. What is the necessary dynamic load capacity for a upper wheel? I really appreciate your answers Best regards Robert
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Robert Erb Last edited by wyattroerb; 11-12-2025 at 05:13 AM. |
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#13
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Hello Robert, welcome to AMS.
There is a guy in Sweden making ewheel anvils that seem to be held in high regard. He’s on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/roger.lund.35?
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Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
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#14
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If you have a a lathe, you’re halfway there. You can use a pre-hardened steel or something that can be heat treated and then send it to a heat treatment shop. It’s not very expensive, usually the same price for one part or several. Just remember that your wheels must be concentric as possible. No runout allowed!
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Bob Innes |
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