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  #11  
Old 11-06-2025, 05:29 AM
Brzeczyszczykiewicz Brzeczyszczykiewicz is offline
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Location: Poland
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I have several products from this company. I reinforced the frame for the EW.

https://www.heliotech.pl/produkty_pl.html
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Last edited by Brzeczyszczykiewicz; 11-06-2025 at 05:34 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-11-2025, 05:25 PM
wyattroerb wyattroerb is offline
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Location: Germany
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Hallo all,
I am not quite sure which top and button anvils/diameters are necessary for shaping and finishing prewar race car panels.
My final goal is to build a body for a Ford A rolling chassis. Since I am owning a lathe I could produce the anvils by myself.
I am just wondering about the disadvantages of non-hardened wheels. Is it worse to built the anvils by myself if it comes to
the comparison of saved money, working hours and the durability and precision of bought rollers?

Is it also possible to use ball bearings for the upper wheel. I found one on the internet with the following spec:
diameter 200 mm / 7,87402 Zoll
width: 60mm / 2,6 Zoll (unfortunately can’t find a widther one)
axle hole: 20mm / 0,787402 Zoll
material: steel C45
dynamic load capacity: 1300 kg / 2.865,98 lbs

Is this bearing useable for a english wheel. What is the necessary dynamic load capacity for a upper wheel?

I really appreciate your answers

Best regards
Robert
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Last edited by wyattroerb; 11-12-2025 at 05:13 AM.
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  #13  
Old 11-12-2025, 03:03 PM
steve.murphy steve.murphy is offline
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Location: Brisbane, Australia
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Hello Robert, welcome to AMS.
There is a guy in Sweden making ewheel anvils that seem to be held in high regard.
He’s on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/roger.lund.35?
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  #14  
Old 11-12-2025, 11:21 PM
Bad Bob Bad Bob is offline
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Location: Gardnerville, NV
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If you have a a lathe, you’re halfway there. You can use a pre-hardened steel or something that can be heat treated and then send it to a heat treatment shop. It’s not very expensive, usually the same price for one part or several. Just remember that your wheels must be concentric as possible. No runout allowed!
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